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March 29, 2007

Ork looted basilisk

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To continue with the recent theme of ork vehicles, I present the ork looted basilisk. The basilisk is a great vehicle in that is allows orks to cause damage beyond the 24” to 36” range. With the ordinance changes in 4th edition I don’t bring it out as often as I use to, but it still makes a nice looking piece. The looted basilisk is not heavily modified beyond the original imperial model, just enough to make it orky.


Some .22 shells were placed on the rear deck with an ammo crate built out of cut pop sickle sticks. I’m disappointed that I couldn’t find good looking grots to use. They would be nice to have for loading the shells.


On the front, the plow was made by taking two of the old imperial difficult terrain mods and turning them upside down. Their ends had to be sanded down at an angle and then glued together.


The chimera/basilisk model has a small hatch on either side of the model that is never used. I took an ork arm with a shoota and positioned it hanging out the window. Another thing I like is the addition of the crosshairs at the end of the barrel, very useful on an indirect fire weapon.

As for painting, I started out with a standard green you would find on any imperial vehicle. I then added some orkiness with the red highlights and obligatory black and white checks. A heavy dry brush of metal for the ‘well used’ feel rounded out the paintjob.


I’ll try to bring in some scratch built kill kans for next week.


Open Thread: On the road again....

5 comments
Hi everybody,

Several of the Fly Lords are flying on up to Chicago today. Adepticon 2007 starts tomorrow and we are brimming with excitement. Feel free to jump into this open thread. As long as its 40k, anything goes!

March 27, 2007

Loyalist Death Guard Family Photo

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Here is a gratuitous photo I took recently with my new camera. It had been a while since I took a "family photo" of the entire army. I had added several new units to it and the older group photo was the in the very first post I ever made here on Bell of Lost Souls.

So here they are for your viewing pleasure. Click the image for a closer look.

-Enjoy

March 26, 2007

Road to Adepticon 2007: Bigred's Gladiator Tournament Army List

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Well, its less than a week away, so its time to unveil my baby.

Here is my Gladiator list for this year's Adepticon in Chicago. The list breaks down as follows:

1999pts

Revenant Scout Titan w/ twin Pulsars
@755pts

8 Dire Avengers with Twin catapult BladeStorm Exarch
in Waveserpent w/Stones dual Shuriken Cannons (turret and chin upgrade)
@248pts

8 Dire Avengers with Twin catapult BladeStorm Exarch
in Waveserpent w/Stones dual Shuriken Cannons (turret and chin upgrade)
@248pts

Falcon with Pulse laser, Scatter Laser, Shuriken Cannon, Holofield, Spirit Stones
@175pts

Vyper with Starcannon, Shuriken Cannon
@80pts

Vyper with Starcannon, Shuriken Cannon
@80pts

Vyper with Starcannon, Shuriken Cannon
@80pts

Farseer with Jetbike, Stones, Runes of Warding, Fortune, Guide
@170

Farseer with Jetbike, Stones, Singing Spear, Fortune, Doom
@163

This gives me the terror value of a Titan, and the entire army is fast skimmers for ease of mission objectives. There is a decent mixture of vehicles and infantry, and the firepower ranges from anti-horde on the Dire Avenger sie of things to the anti-"whatever you care about" on the Pulsar side of things.

The list definately has the "oh crap, a Titan!" terror value, and should be able to achieve a a variety of objectives with it's speed. If the titan folds early, its curtains but isn't that the story with any superheavy based army. The army is very resiliant as Eldar armies go, and is pretty hard to bring down as long as it keeps moving. It also turns out that a fast skimmer titan with a 10" diameter base who can tankshock anything else except other super heavies is VERY good at clearing objectives late game if it needs to.

Wish me luck, and we will be posting from Chicago during the events!

-bigred

March 25, 2007

Road to Adepticon 2007: Mkerr's Gladiator Tournament Army List

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On Friday I'm playing in Adepticon's Gladiator Tournament. It's a no-holds barred, no soft scores, anything goes 2000pt tournament. The first rule of the Gladiator Tournament is "No Whining!" and it's a hell of an event! Last year I played an Enslaved Witch Hunters Army (with a Culexus) using one of Andy Chambers' Creature Feature articles from White Dwarf. This year I'm counting on the newness of the Dark Angel Codex to surprise my opponents with a one-two punch that I like to call the "Red Hot Poker".

The list is based on the first DA list I posted here, but it's been tuned specifically for Adepticon's Gladiator Tournament. I'll break down the list into functional pieces and tell you a little on how I plan to use it. Don't worry; I'll keep a few tricks up my sleeve for the actual tournament.

The first section is my Deathwing Assault unit. This is the Red Hot Poker (yes, it's a Mel Brooks reference; thanks for playing). You'll find two very tough characters attached to a very tough group of Assault Terminators. This seven-man unit appears using Teleport Homers; more than often on my first turn.

SECTION 1: THE RED HOT POKER

Belial, Master of the Deathwing
- Twin Lightning Claws, Rites of Battle
- Standard Bearer, Apothecary
185pts

Grey Knights Grand Master
- S6 Force Weapon, Storm Bolter
- Holy Relic
175pts

Deathwing Terminator Squad
- Sergeant w/Twin Lightning Claws and Company Standard
- 2 Twin Lighting Claws
- 1 Thunder Hammer and Storm Shield
- 1 Apothecary with Assault Cannon
245pts

Notes: The Grand Master adds a lot to the army besides his S6 Force Weapon. According to the nifty Adepticon FAQ, his presence negates Minor Psychic Powers. This means that I don't have to worry about Siren Princes! And besides the nasty Nemesis Force Pike he carries a Holy Relic that gives every member of his squad +1A when they need it most.

Dirty Trick: The Grey Knight's Grand Master lends his Aegis and Shrouding abilities to the unit as well. This helps me deal with annoying powers like Fury of the Ancients and long-range shooting.

The squad has a crazy number of attacks: The Deathwing Standard gives every member of the unit +1A. The Holy Relic adds another +1A to everyone when I need it most. On the charge the GK Grandmaster gets 5 attacks, Belial 6, the Lightning Claw Terminators 5 each, and the Thunder Hammer and Power Fist are 4 each. If I use the Holy Relic that round, the unit can dish out 25 TLC attacks and 15 attacks that are S6 or S8! And thanks to Deathwing Assault combined with Ravenwing Teleport Homers, I can get this unit where I need it as early as the first turn.

SECTION 2: SHOOTING

10-man Devastator Squad
- 4 Missile Launchers
245pts

10-man Devastator Squad
- 2 Heavy Bolters
- 2 Plasma Cannons
245pts

10-man Tactical Squad
- Veteran Sergeant with Power Fist
- Plasma Cannon
- Rhino
240pts

10-man Tactical Squad
- Veteran Sergeant with Power Fist
- Plasma Cannon
- Rhino
240pts

Notes: My long-range shooting element consists of six 5-man squads with a total of 4 Missile Launchers, 4 Plasma Cannons and 2 Heavy Bolters. So far I've been very happy with the mix and don't miss the S9 Lascannon at all. Since my army doesn't have a lot to fear from tanks, I've just been ignoring AV14 (including a Warhound Scout Titan last week!) to focus on my opponent's infantry. The loadout seems to be enough to deal with AV12/13 tanks and is devastating to 2+/3+Sv armies.

SECTION 3: MOBILITY

6-man Ravenwing Attack Squadron
- Multi-melta Attack Bike
- Veteran Sergeant with Power Fist
- 2 Plasma Guns
325pts

Ravenwing Support Squadron
- Land Speeder Tornado
100pts

Notes: There are really two parts to this section: terminator delivery and objective management. The three squads of bikes (two 3-man squads and the Attack Bike) have the unenviable job of placing the Terminators where I want them. They use their scout move to setup a location and to shield themselves from enemy fire. In 90% of my games, I use DWA to bring in my Terminators on the first turn (especially if I've pulled off a Refused Flank maneuver). The bikes, having done their job, move into assault to tie up a unit. This blocks line of sight for return fire and keeps my opponent in place for an assault by my Terminators.

The second part of this section is composed of two 5-man squads in Rhinos and a Land Speeder Tornado. These three units support my army against counter charge and manage objectives.
At first glance the army seems really top-heavy, but even though I've spent over 600pts on my Terminator squad I've still managed to squeeze in 13 scoring units. The army is nicely balanced between a strong assault element and a strong long-range shooting element. I have enough mobility to handle far objectives and I have the ability to concentrate an amazing amount of power into a small location. The army plays well spread out along a long board edge and it plays well crammed into a corner.

I haven't had as many games with the list as I'd like due to a last minute change in the tournament rules barring my Enslaved Nidzilla list. But I have managed to play the army in two local RTTs and I've won both tournaments. I'm taking that as a good sign.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on the army -- comments are welcome!

March 23, 2007

TACTICA: Eldar army construction 101

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"Harden your soul against decadence. But do not despise it, for the soft appearance of the decadent may be deceptive. One need only consider the Harlequin dancers of the Eldar to see the truth of this proposition"
-Leman Russ, A Book of Admonitions for the Legiones Astartes

You are ready to tread the Eldar Path at last. It both twisting and rewarding in equal measure. The Eldar are one of the game's oldest armies, with their first armylist coming out quickly on the heels of the original Rogue Trader Hardback in 1988. They have grown and evolved over the years , most recently with their brand new 4th edition codex, in which you will find one of the most varied, specialized, and rewarding armies in the game.

What are the Eldar?

The Eldar present a new player with a huge amount of disparate choices and are tough for newcomers to get a handle on. The codex gives players a robust 25 unit choices (compared with say 12 for the Necrons), and they are some of the most varied units to be stuffed into a single codex.

Above all other races, the Eldar provide you the player, a set of Surgeon's Tools. They are laid out before you one after another, each perfectly suited to a specific purpose. Some are sharp, some blunt, some long, some short, some heavy and some light. Above all they are delicate.

What the Eldar codex provides a player is a force that with advance planning can achieve any objective with utter precision and grace.

What aren't the Eldar?

Above all they are not forgiving. Make a misstep, or plan out your army poorly, and you will often find yourslef in an unwinnable situation. Almost no other army can go from utter domination to crushing defeat in a single bad phase like the Eldar, and you are truly walking a tightrope every turn you play them. Are you worried yet? Dont be, its just a matter of losing your fear of heights.

The List

Lets go over the codex unit by unit and categorize them as I suggested in the earlier tactica. Remember that these judgements are fast and loose, so don't get to hung up on any in particular:

HQ
Autarch: Assault, Mobility
Avatar: Assault, Resiliance
Farseer: Mobility, Augmentation*
Phoenix Lord: Assault, Mobility(some)

Elite
Striking Scorpions: Resiliance, Assault
Fire Dragons: Firepower
Wraithguard: Resiliance, Firepower
Howling Banshees: Assault
Harlequins: Mobility, Assault

Troops
Dire Avengers: Utility, Firepower
Rangers: Resiliance, Firepower
Guardians: Utility
Guardian Jetbikes: Mobility

Fast Attack
Shining Spears: Mobility, Assault
Warp Spiders: Resiliance, Mobility, Firepower
Swooping Hawks: Mobility, Firepower
Vyper Squadron: Mobility

Heavy Support
Support Weapon Battery: Firepower
Dark Reapers: Firepower
Wraithlord: Resiliance, Assault
War Walker Squadron : Firepower
Falcon: Firepower, Resilance, Mobility, Transport
Fire Prism: Firepower, Resiliance, Mobility

Wave Serpent: Resiliance, Mobility, Transport

Have you noticed anything unusual about that list? If you said "Where are the utility choices?" or "Look at all of those Firepower choices", or even "Thats not many resiliance units", you would be off to a good start. Another thing to note, is that with Fleet of foot, you can count most of the infanty as being a little towards the "Mobility" side as well.

As with any army, you can build what you want, but to go against the basic premise of the race just makes things more difficult. Not impossible, just harder. With the Eldar you have been given an army that is fast, brittle, and throws out the shooting, backed up by some of the games most feared assault troops (scorpions, banshees and harlequins).

The Farseer is a special note, as there is not really an equivalent unit in any other army. He is mainly an augmentation force, who when equipped properly will make a Combat Block perform better, rather then directly aiding your cause through the destruction of the foe or capturing objectives like traditional units.

Combat Blocks

Now lets move on to some recommended Combat Blocks you can put together to emphasize certain aspects of the army. Remember, these are just introductory suggestions to get your thinking cap on.

Utility Blocks
These bread and butter blocks provide a solid base of infantry to be used for either static defence or aggressvie offense:

Aggressive shooting/assault block
Dire Avenger (x3)
Avatar (makes the block fearless)

Long-range shooting block
Guardian (x3)
Rangers (adds some pinning and anti high-toughness shooting)

Mobility Blocks:
These combat blocks keep the enemy off balance with their rapid movements and can shift from target to target faster then most foes can react.

Aggressive shooting block
Falcon w/Fire Dragons (x2)
Farseer (jetbike)
Warp Spiders

Near/Far assault/shooting block
Fire Prism (x2)
Banshees w/Wave Serpents (x2)

Harrassment fire/objective taking block (budget mobility block)
Vypers (x2)
Guardian Jetbikes (x2)

Assault Blocks:
These blocks excel as destroying the eneny in assault quickly often before they can react and put up a strong countercharge force. The speed can often be used to misdirect the foe during deployment as to the actual assault targets.

Highspeed assault w/midfield countercharge block (mounted)
Banshees w/Wave Serpents (x2)
Scorpions

Highspeed assault w/midfield countercharge block (lethal in Cities of Death)
Harlequins (x2)
Scorpions

Infiltrating midfield assault block with rapid-response countercharge (none shall pass block)
Scorpions (x2)
Shining Spear
Autarch (jetbike)

Firepower Blocks:
Like the old saying goes "Their arrogance is matched only by their firepower". Few armies can dish out the shots like the Eldar.

Near/Far shooting block
War Walkers
Warp Spiders
Dire Avengers (x2)

Near/Far shooting block (mounted)
Dark Reapers
Fire Dragons w/ Falcons (x2)
Warp Spiders

Near/Far shooting block (specialized for big-bugs/monoliths/scary ICs)
Wraithguard w/Wave Serpents (x2)
War Walkers (x2)

Escalating pain shooting block (keep the foe in their deployment zone block)

Support Weapons
Dark Reapers
Fire Prisms (x2)

Resiliance Blocks:
These buildouts are the most cifficult for the Eldar but they can do it.

Spirithost block
Wraithguard (x3)
Wraithlord
Farseer

Fearless Assault block
Scorpions (x3)
Avatar

Tankrush block
Falcon (x3)

The possibilities here are endless. What I'm trying to do is get folks thinking about using Eldar units synergisticly in concert with each other. Some of the blocks attack all at a single point en masse. Other strike from different positions to confuse the enemy. Above all, you should have a plan, but stay flexible, and look for exploitable areas of the enemy line to just shatter. Above most armies, the Speed of the Eldar allows you to pull this off. Whereas 80% of the game for Imperial Guard is deployment, 80% of the Eldar decisions are ones of maneuver. The Movement phase is your most challenging phase.

The most effective way to husband your valuable but fragile forces is to destroy much of an isolated section of the enemy line in a single turn, so there is very little to shoot back at you. Next turn you move on and repeat the process.

Start off with an army that uses 2-3 of these Combat blocks to perform 2 different characteristics you want to pursue (like mobility/shooting for example).

Now go forth and defend the Craftworlds.

-bigred

March 22, 2007

Deathcult assassins, Delaque style

3 comments
I’m not a big fan of the deathcult assassin’s that GW puts out. The acrobatic sword swinging ninja’s look more Elder than Imperial. For the Adeptus Arbites army I’ve been building I wanted grittier, down to earth, stab you in a dark ally looking assassins.
I started out with Necromunda’s Delaque gang figures. Their trench coats and shaved heads had the right feel. Unfortunately, they all carried guns. I ordered six of the models that looked like they would require the least amount of clipping and filing.

The guns weren’t that hard to remove, and were easily replaced with cadian bayonets that had been clipped off their rifles. They look a little bit like The Matrix rejects, but they fit the army well.

March 21, 2007

TACTICA: Vindicare Assassin

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"Exitus Acta Probat: the Outcome Justifies the Deed." -- Dictatus Vindicare

The Vindicare is a popular Imperial Assassin with new players, but it takes a lot of skill to "earn back his points". New players are often inspired to add him to their army by the portrayal of the Imperial Assassin in Vindicare, a short story by C. S. Goto (in Takes from the Dark Millennium), and by the "Assassin" in Relic's 40k-based computer game, Dawn of War.

Veteran players often choose him because of the memorable story of Agent Morias Skult (Vindicare Temple, 2nd Class) who took out an Ork Gargant with a single shot to the fuel line. The resulting explosion killed 800-900 Orks. Sadly, the mission was only 86.3% successful. The High Lords have very high standards for their Assassins.

If the Eversor is the Officio Assassinorum's sword, then the Vindicare is the scalpel. This tactica discusses the Vindicare, highlights his strengths, and gives you some suggestions for fitting him into an army.

VINDICARE 101.
Although he rarely leaves his perch, the Vindicare is no slouch in close combat. He shares all of the combat statistics of an Imperial Assassin, but lacks a Power Weapon. What he lacks in close combat strength he gains as a Marksman.

The Temple Vindicare Assassin is armed with the Exitus Rifle (and three special rounds of ammunition), the Exitus Pistol, a Spy Mask and a Stealth Suit. Combined with the Marksman special ability, the Vindicare is designed to be 40K's deadliest sniper.

The Marksman ability is what makes the Vindicare one of the most feared models in the game. This ability allows him to ignore targeting restrictions and target any model in range and line of sight. That means that hidden Power Fists aren't hidden from him and Independent Character status offers no protection.

The Exitus Rifle is a specially designed Sniper Rifle with an AP value of 2. In addition, the Assassin has access to three special rounds: the Shield-Breaker (ignores Invulnerable saves), the Turbo-Penetrator (inflicts 2 wounds, Armor Penetration of 3D6), and the Hellfire (wounds on a 2+).

My favorite is by far the Hellfire round and I almost always use it on my first shot (usually targeting a hidden Power Fist or Icon Bearer). Nothing makes your opponent rethink his strategy than popping a model with your first shot.

Note: You can only use one round at a time, but don't hold them back. Nothing is more frustrating than ending the game with special ammunition left.

The Exitus Pistol is a healthy S5 AP2 pistol. Most players forget that this pistol is often better than the Exitus Rifle when it has range. It hits on a 2+, wounds most enemies on a 3+ and is AP2. If the Vindicare doesn't move, he can take two shots at a target within 12". If you are out of special ammo and your opponent is close, don't forget to pull out this gem of a pistol.

Note: You can also use the Marksman ability with the Exitus Pistol. This means that the Assassin can target TWO different models in range. Since he ignores targeting restrictions, those targets can be in different units.

The Vindicare's Spy Mask reduces his target's cover save by one and allows him to roll 2D6x5 for determining how far he can see when Night Fighting, giving him an average of 35". His Stealth Suit forces the Night Fighting rules to be used when targeting him (and halves the distance if the Night Fighting rules are already in effect).

Note: The Stealth Suit benefits from change to the Night Fighting rules in 4E. If your opponent fails to roll the distance needed to target the Vindicare, he loses his opportunity to shoot. Since the average Night Fighting distance rolled is 21", most players won't bother shooting at your Assassin until they are within that range.

WHEN TO USE A VINDICARE.
I regularly use the Vindicare in my Daemonhunters army, but rarely in my Witch Hunters lists. I dust him off from time-to-time to remind people that I might dust him off from time-to-time. In my mind, this has the beneficial side effect of keeping Daemonbomb armies to a minimum.

The best time to use a Vindicare is if you expect to face a Daemonbomb army. He's also effective against opponents that rely too heavily on hidden Power Fists (or Resurrection Orbs) or an opponent that uses a single model for a large portion of his army's Leadership, such as Standard Bearers, Books of St Lucius, Rites of Battle, Master Voxes, Commissars, etc. The Vindicare is unparalleled at disrupting lines of communication.

Note: The Vindicare works very well with Daemonhosts in a radical DH army. Since Daemonhosts are T4, they are very vulnerable to hidden Powerfists. I often use a Vindicare to kill the unit's Powerfist before my Daemonhost assaults. It's a nice combination.

HOW TO USE A VINDICARE.
The Vindicare is easy for a new player to use, but improves in effectiveness with the skill of the player. He is user-friendly; I often refer to him as the "Point-and-Click Assassin". The secret to a Vindicare is choosing his target.

You want to deploy the Vindicare in a safe location with a clear view of the battlefield. I generally place him out of my opponent's path (the direction I expect him to advance), but in a location where he has a line of sight to that path. I place him in the best cover I can find.

Where you place your Vindicare determines how many targets he has and how vulnerable he is to assault and enemy shooting. Take great care in placing him (I usually have a location picked out before I put down my first model).

The next thing you need to know before you start the game is who your targets are going to be. Don't wait until the beginning of your turn to decide. Re-read what I just said. If you can't think a turn or two in advance, then the Vindiare isn't for you; go with the Eversor or Callidus.

Every army has a soft spot; you just have to find it. Here are some things to look for: Tau Ethereals, Daemon Vessels, Icon Bearers, Eldar Exarchs, Spiritseers, Shadowseers, Necron Lords, Imperial Guard Standard Bearers, Synapse Creatures, Death Company Chaplains, Apothecaries/Medics, Dark Eldar Sybarites, etc.

Dirty Trick #1: Didn't get a chance to kill that hidden Power Fist before he got into close combat with your army? No problem. As long as the Vindicare has line of sight and range, he can target a model in close combat.

As befits a scalpel, the Vindicare can be used to shave Victory Points in later turns. A single wound on an Independent Character costs him half his Victory Points. As does bringing a Monstrous Creature below half wounds. A single wound can also deprive a unit of Scoring Unit status. If used carefully, the Vindicare can deny objectives to your enemy and earn extra Victory Points.

Almost as important as who to target is who not to target. Don't go after a model you can't kill with one shot. That typically means you want to avoid 3 wound models (and 2 wound models after you use your Turbo-Penetrator). Don't go after vehicles. It's tempting with the 3D6 Armor Penetration, but most players don't realize that it only averages an Armor Penetration of 10.5. Don't go after a multi-wound model with an Invulnerable save (unless you have to). Don't go after a model that won't have an impact on the game.

Dirty Trick #2: Ever have a pesky model that manages to survive a close combat in your opponent's turn and denies your ability to wipe out the enemy unit in your next shooting phase? No problem. As long as the Vindicare has line of sight and range, he can target ANY model. That includes models in your own army. This also denies your opponent the ability to consolidate (often leaving him packed tightly from the previous turn's Pile In move)...

It's also worth mentioning that the Master Snipers and Power Generator Strategems are very effective with a Vindicare in Cities of Death. When combined with Space Marine Scouts (or Ratlings) this can make for a very deadly unit.

Note: The Vindicare works really well with other Snipers. I place them in the same piece of terrain (with my Vindicare slightly in front of them). If my opponent wants to shoot my snipers, he must make a Target Priority check. If he fails, then he has to make a Night Fighting test. If he fails that, he loses his shot. This only has to happen once before your opponent will move on to easier targets.

Next time: The Callidus...

March 20, 2007

ORK FIGHTA-BOMMER

1 comments

I mentioned a few weeks back that I built an ork flyer. I figured today was as good a day as any to show some pics of it.

I started off with a MIG 15 model kit. It matched what I pictured for an ork flyer pretty well, and only needed a few frame modifications. The wings were too rounded at the end. I took about ¼” off the outside and filled it in with putty. This gave it a nice square edge.


No ork, especially a speed freak, could live with just a single engine, so I built 2 more out of things laying around the house (lego, screw heads, a grommet, etc) and mounted them between the body and the wings. The top of the wings looked too nice and factory made, but the bottoms, with the wheel wells and other fittings looked much more orky, so they wings got flipped upside down.

The landing gear and wheels were also much too small. They were replaced with large knobby tires with gear made out of old spru. I also cut squares out of thin cardboard and glued then around the airframe to look like patches with rivets.

The pilot was taken from the ork deathcopta kit. The ‘evil sun’ was printed out and then glued to sides. I used it as a template and did a 'paint by numbers' on it.



I undercoated the whole thing in a light grey, then painted some of the panels in darker shades of grey and brown. When I went back over it with the red, it made the panels stand out and look very mismatched.

Overall, it turned out well. Too bad the rules for fighta bombers arn’t that great.

TACTICA: Apothecary

14 comments


I've played against Medics in Imperial Guard armies many times. I've used Chirurgeons in my Inquisitorial armies for years. But I rarely pulled out my Apothecary (in any of my Space Marine armies). I loved the model, but I could never seem to justify the extra points. With the new Dark Angels codex, I thought I would give the Terminator Apothecary a spin. After my first game, I realized how much I've been missing. I thought I would take a few minutes and share my recent experiences.

With a little skill and a lot of luck, a single Apothecary can ignore 12 wounds in the course of a 6-turn game. I've done it twice in my last six games with my Terminator Apothecary. Here are some tips to help you get the most out of this underappreciated model.

Tip #1: Remember the Apothecary can be used in both players’ turns. This not only allows you to shrug enemy fire in his turn, but it allows you to ignore a pesky overheat (or failed Perils of the Warp test) in your turn.

Dirty Trick #1: No wounds cause Instant Death to Sammael because he has an Adamantine Mantle. This means a Ravenwing Apothecary can ignore a S8+ wound placed on him. This is a fantastic way for expensive Ravenwing units to shrug powerful weapons like Lascannons.

Tip #2: This is the gem of the article and if you walk away understanding this tip, you are going to love your Apothecary. Most players lose the benefit of the Narthecium when they get into close combat (a model moves into base contact which locks the Apothecary). So the secret is to prevent the Apothecary from getting LOCKED in the combat.

First of all, when you assault take care in the placement of the Apothecary. Make sure he's the last model moved. This allows you to place him within 2" of a model in base contact with the enemy. I usually choose a model I won't take as a casualty (my Power Fist Sergeant, for example). To prevent your opponent from getting in base contact when he assaults, make sure your Apothecary is inside your unit. This is pretty easy unless you are being assaulted by really fast units like Assault Marines or Seraphim.

Next, to keep the Apothecary from being locked, you have to have a clear understanding of the 'Pile In' rules.

The 'Pile In' Moves sections tells us "At the end of each Assault Phase, models in units that were locked, but which are not themselves engaged in combat, MUST move up to 6" in an attempt to contact enemy that were in the same combat" (BGB, p44). The key word here is engaged.

If you look up "engaged" you will find that a model is engaged if it is "base-to-base contact, or within 2" of a model from its own unit in base-to-base contact" (BGB, p38).

This means if one of your models is within 2" of a model in base contact with the enemy, it doesn't have to move in base contact. Almost everu 40K player plays this wrong and moves all models into base contact. But if the model is already in the killzone (i.e., within 2" of a model in base contact), you don't move him.

For example, you assault a unit with your Command Squad. You place each model in base contact, moving your Apothecary last. If done carefully, there will be no way to put your Apothecary to get into base contact so he moves behind a member of his own unit. He's not in base contact with the enemy, but he is "engaged". So he doesn't Pile In at the end of the combat. Now he's engaged, but not locked. This means his Narthecium will work in the next turn (and every turn until he is locked in base contact).

Tip #3: The Narthecium works on any friendly model within 6" of the Apothecary. Even veteran players often forget this rule. So if you have two squads near each other, keep the important models within 6" of the Apothecary.

Dirty Trick #2
: I use a Deathwing Terminator Squad with an Apothecary and a Ravenwing Bike Squad with two Plasma Guns in my Dark Angels army. In my first turn I Deep Strike Deathwing Assault my Terminators 6" in front of my Bikes, then move my Bikes 12". This allows my Ravenwing to move their maximum distance but keeps my Apothecary within 6' of the Plasma Guns. My Bikes rapid-fire and the Apothecary fixes the first overheat (saving me a very expensive bike). Works like a charm.

Tip #4: Don't forget about the Reductor. I don't get a lot of use out of this because I use a Terminator Apothecary in a Fearless unit, but it's very handy for keeping preventing Morale tests in nearby squads.

If you are a Dark Angels player, I recommend trying out the Deathwing Terminator Apothecary (and Standard Bearer). Even if you are still using the Space Marine Codex, this addition is definitely worth the points if you play it right.

Thanks for reading and I'd love some comments from players who use the Apothecary (or play against one)!

March 19, 2007

TACTICA: Army Design

1 comments

This is a first in a series of posts regarding the basics of selecting, designing, and collecting an army.

I usually see tons of post saying, "here check out this unbeatable list", yadda, yadda, and most of those lists suck, or are so ridiculous that no one would ever actually field them or play against them. What you rarely see are folks describing their thought process that goes into the design of an army, abstracted and apart from the actual list itself. This series will address that.


Army Selection

So you want to play this game and you don't know what to play. As I have always told newcomers, ultimately this hobby of ours is a Visual Experience. That is, we don't sit behind a computer, or play it with cardboard chits, but with nicely painted minis on a hopefully beautiful board. Few things are as satisfying as having a game using two stunning armies clashing on a gorgeous table. Those games are more memorable to me than the most hard fought tournament game fought between two unpainted forces on a folding table covered with felt and books for mountains.... Bleagh... who wants to spend their free time doing that.

Where is this going.... Well let the models lead you. While some will dispute this In General, GW has balanced 40k fairly well and all the armies are overall good. That said, look at the models, read the fluff, and take a look through the Rulebook, and the Codices. Go with the army that most visually excites YOU. There is no wrong decision.

List Categorization

So you have an army selected, bought the codex, love its looks and have a bunch of money burning a hole in your pocket. All your friends are telling you about so and so who runs this crazy army and how it can't be beat, and how this Special character is cheaty, and how you need to buy 9 Venerable Dreadnoughts because the rules don't say you cant, and you are paralyzed with doubt.

First things first. Design out a nice list on paper First, then slowly start to collect towards it. I usually sit down and go over every unit in a codex and categorize them as follows (units can have multiple categories:


Firepower (this unit is really good at laying down the smack stick)
Assault (This unit is above average at HTH combat)
Mobility (This unit moves very quickly)
Resiliance (This unit can absorb significant damage and survive)
Utility (This unit can be adapted to a large number of roles)
Transport (This unit can carry other units)
Barrage (This unit can fire without exposing itself to the enemy)

Examples would be:

Chaplain: Assault/Mobility(jump pack)
Tactical Marine Squad: Utility/Resiliance
Whirlwind: Barrage
Land Raider: Transport/Mobility/Resiliance
Devastator Squad: Firepower/Resiliance

Army Theme

Now that you have categorized your units, decide based on your whim, what is the goal of your army. Do you want a fast army that destroys the enemy in hand to hand or via shooting? Do you want a large number of resiliant units who can take whatever the enemy dishes out, or a larger number of weaker ones?

In general, you should pick 2 of the above categories and stress them, with a small helping of the others to round out the force. An army that tries to do all things fails to do any.

In general, Resiliance and Mobility tend to be mutually exclusive as do Firepower and Assault (there are exceptions, but they are usually VERY pricy).

List Design

Ok, you now have an Army, knowledge of unit abilities, and a theme. How do you construct a list? My recommendation is "Combat Blocks" What is a Combat Block you say, well I will tell you. A Combat Block is a group of 2-4 Force Org Selections that are designed to work together to accomplish a goal, in fact it will be one of the characteristics you have selected as your theme.

When making a Combat Block, I personally emphasize a larger number of duplicate units over a smaller number of larger ones, as that:
a) increases my number of scoring units
b) gives me more choice when deploying
c) hampers my opponents due to target saturation with multiple units of roughly the same threat level.

Here is an example Firepower combat block I use to anchor a marine firing line:

Predator
Devastator Squad
Devastator Squad
Dreadnought (with all ranged weapons)

This group of units will deploy to support each other and accomplish their overall goal of providing firepower for the rest of the army.

Here is my Mobility combat block used in my Eldar army:

Falcon
Falcon
Warp Spiders
Jetbike Farseer

As you can see, combat blocks come from different areas of the Force Org chart, and deploy at different times, but they are designed to work in concert during the game to accomplish a specific goal.

In an average army I will build 2 combat blocks for each army category I am building for, with at least 1 unit in each block having an alternative categorization I can use in a pinch if i come up against something unexpected. In the above example, the Warp Spiders can assault in a pinch if I HAVE to countercharge. They aren't the best at it, but I have the option.

Putting it All Together

In short, without going into individual list specifics, this technique is a way of training your mind, and helps new players get into the game, settle on an army that they are excited about, and build a focussed list that has a sense of purpose on the tabletop, instead of the diluted "one of everything" lists you see losing time after time. It also gets the critical thinking part of your noggin churning my forcing you to decide on what it is your list is trying to accomplish, instead of letting your foe dictate the battle and your tactics for you.

Next Time: The Eldar: Combat Groups and overall Philosophy.

March 16, 2007

Scythes of the Emperor Logo Sheet

4 comments

I have been noting for a while that GW does a great job of covering the major 1st Founding and select 2nd Founding chapters with their decal sheets. However, there are a number of great looking 2nd and later founding chapters who get a good amount of back-story and have great alternative uniform colors that never have had decals produced for them. In the interest of promoting diversity in the Marine community and encouraging players to branch out beyond the "big 4" and using the Trait system, I will begin producing logo sheets for some of these other chapters who I think look great and have no GW decal support.

Here are the Scythes of the Emperor. These guys are dutiful to the end, after being almost wiped out fighting against the Tyranids. They have wonderful background fluff. Here is the link to the PDF file for the decal sheet you can freely pull down and use:

Download Here

I created the original logo in Adobe Illustrator, then made variations of it for size and color (outline and solid color versions). The sheet is designed for printout on Decal printer paper which is easily available online.

The thing about decal paper is that it is clear by default (instead of white), so the decals need to be applied to a light colored surface to be visible at all. The procedure for applying the "outline only" decals is to apply them to a white surface, and wait till they are fully dried. Then using the outlines as a guide, paint in the darker color around the decal. Its is odd, but gets the job done.

Size wise, the larger decals towards the top are best used for super heavies/terrain, and move down in size to the large array of Marine Shoulderpad towards the bottom.

In any case, enjoy and I wish you the best in using this set for your forces.

Please feel free to leave comments if there is a special Marine Chapter you would love to collect, but have no GW decal options, and I will see what I can do.

-bigred

March 14, 2007

Terrain Workshop: Roads

3 comments

One of the terrain features that is often overlooked and underused is roads. Building sectional roads is not as hard as it may seem, but it is a little more involved that the other terrain pieces I have written about. It takes several steps to make a road, but it is hard to make them look bad. This is by no means the best way to make them, but it did work for me.

1) Planning. The first thing to do is to pick a base material. I use the standard hardboard (similar to MDF). It is important to figure out the scale of your roads. I went with single lane roads 3” across. In hindsight, it may have been better to go with 4” wide roads.

2) More Planning. The next choice is the length and type of pieces. I recommend several 12" and 18" straight pieces, some 90 and 45 degree turns, and various intersections.

3) Cutting. Cut the base pieces out of the hardboard; I use a jigsaw. It is also a good idea to sand down the long edges of the boards.

4) Texture. I use Elmer's Wood filler. It is relatively inexpensive and gives a good look. I find it is much easier if you get the surface damp first. You don’t want to overdo it, as too much water will cause the board to warp and even breakdown the wood's bond. You don't need an even coat, but it should be completely covered. You will want to rub the surface along the road in the direction of traffic. Don't make the lines too straight.

5) Paint. After the texture dries, it is time to paint. I picked a light brown, about the color of cardboard. Pick a color that matches the rest of your terrain. Again, paint in long strokes to match the flow of traffic across the road.

6) Wash. I use a black "magic wash". If you don’t know what magic wash is, do a search. It is easy to make and works very well.

7) Wash #2. This is not so much to give the road color as to give something for the gravel in the next step to adhere to. Make sure your first application of wash is completely dry before you do this step. You can also use various adhesives (watered down PVA glue, spray adhesive, etc). Do a very light coat in this step.

8) Gravel. Lightly sprinkle woodland scenic gravel over the road. If your wash was too thick, the gravel (which I believe is made of cork) will absorb the wash and make your road look like it is covered in strange black acne. Remember, sprinkle very lightly. You don't need very much to give it the right effect.

9) Flock prep. Run a light bead of PVS glue (Elmer’s) down the outside edge of the road section, and then run your finger along it. Take your index finger and 'tap' the glue, running all along the edge. This will give it a bit of randomness. Take a few dabs of glue and put splotches along the center of the road.

10) Flocking. I use woodland scenic burt grass, but make sure you get something that matches the color of your gaming table to help the edges blend in.

11) Sealing. Use standard sealing techniques. Gloss coat followed by a dull coat.

If this all sounds like a lot of work, there is an alternative. Last week I was taking my son to the local toy store and noticed they had a series of airplanes called ‘HotWings’ on sale. They also had runway sections to go with the planes. For about $1.50, they were selling 2 feet of runway sections. The sections were interconnecting, and made of durable ¼ inch foam.

March 12, 2007

Relictors Logo Sheet

5 comments

I have been noting for a while that GW does a great job of covering the major 1st Founding and select 2nd Founding chapters with their decal sheets. However, there are a number of great looking 2nd and later founding chapters who get a good amount of back-story and have great alternative uniform colors that never have had decals produced for them. In the interest of promoting diversity in the Marine community and encouraging players to branch out beyond the "big 4" and using the Trait system, I will begin producing logo sheets for some of these other chapters who I think look great and have no GW decal support.

First up is the Relictors. These guys are just great and have wonderful background fluff, rules and wargear from White Dwarf. Here is the link to the PDF file for the decal sheet you can freely pull down and use:

Download Here

I created the original logo in Adobe Illustrator, then made variations of it for size and color (outline and solid color versions). The sheet is designed for printout on Decal printer paper which is easily available online.

The thing about decal paper is that it is clear by default (instead of white), so the decals need to be applied to a light colored surface to be visible at all. The procedure for applying the "outline only" decals is to apply them to a white surface, and wait till they are fully dried. Then using the outlines as a guide, paint in the darker color around the decal. Its is odd, but gets the job done.

Size wise, the larger decals towards the top are best used for super heavies/terrain, and move down in size to the large array of Marine Shoulderpad towards the bottom.
In any case, enjoy and I wish you the best in using this set for your forces.

Please feel free to leave comments if there is a special Marine Chapter you would love to collect, but have no GW decals, and I will see what I can do.

-bigred

March 9, 2007

Adepticon: Spring Training

2 comments

Here is a quick shot taken this weekend of one of our lists springing into action.

I think you can figure out what we are honing our tactics for. So how did the 2000 pt list work out? 2 Victorious Slaughters and 1 Solid Victory propelled one of the Fly Lords into the winners circle at a local Austin tournament.

We are coming...

March 8, 2007

Introducing: The Fly Lords of Terra

1 comments

We have our new logo and we are ready to roll!

After a bit of hard work, visual design, and furied playtesting, purchasing, painting, and tweaking our group is ready for action. Our bolters are loaded, cocked, and our fingers are on the trigger.

What is the big secret we have been hinting at for the last week or so?

We are headed for Adepticon: 2007 in Chicago from March 30-April 1.

You can expect numerous posts coming soon regarding our tournament preparations, lists, and tons of pics. We also plan on bringing whatever camera equipment we can cram into our travel bags so there should be some field-blogging from location during the event.

March 7, 2007

TACTICA: Culexus Assassin

12 comments

"That which is unknown and unseen always commands the greatest fear." -- Dictatus Culexus

The Culexus Assassin is the least used and most misunderstood of the Imperial Assassins. It is also one of the most devastating, if used correctly. This tactica article discusses the Culexus, highlights its strengths, and gives you some suggestions for fitting it into an army.

CULEXUS 101.
Besides the already formidable characteristics of an Imperial Assassin, the Culexus has a handful of wargear and special rules to differentiate the Culexus Temple from the others.

First and foremost a Culexus is Souless. Any model within 12" of the Culexus has its Leadership lowered to 7. Combined with Infiltration, this ability gives the Culexus its teeth.

Our subject is armed with the feared Animum Speculum. This S5 AP1 weapon is an Assault 2 weapon that gains an extra shot for every Psyker within 12". Without limit. The best I've ever done was 27 glorious shots against a 25-man Seer Council. Few of my 40k memories compare to it. I still get misty-eyed thinking about it.

Note: there are a lot more psykers in the game than most people are aware of, not just Farseers and Librarians. All Synapse creatures are psykers which makes a Culexus a great option against Tyranids. Also whole units of Grey Knight Terminators are psykers and with a S5 AP1 weapon they have a lot to fear from our Assassin.

The Culexus has the Etherium ability that forces any unit wishing to shoot at, target with a psychic power, or charge to make a Leadership test. If failed, the unit must attack another target. This ability meshes well with Infiltrate and Souless.

The Culexus has three other abilities of note that are of use against enemy psykers: Psychic Abomination forces psykers within 6" to pass a Morale check or fall back. Psyker Assassin allows the Culexus to ignore shooting restrictions to target a psyker (and ignore other models to get into contact with a psyker when charging). And Life Drain, which gives the Assassin the ability to put wounds on psykers before close combat is resolved.

Note: I didn't mention Psyk-Out Grenades because they are pretty terrible pieces of wargear. Since saving throws are taken as normal, three shots with the Animus Speculum is almost always better than using a Psyk-Out Grenade.

What the Culexus doesn't have is a Power Weapon. This means that although a tough cookie, it can't stand toe-to-toe with an enemy unit like an Eversor or Callidus. A Culexus is best used as a Leadership lodestone and a short-range shooting platform.

WHEN TO USE A CULEXUS.
The main consideration when choosing a Culexus is knowing exactly how you intend to use the Assassin. Since Souless affects friends as well as enemies, you need to keep the Culexus at an arm's length (or in the company of Fearless units). The last thing you want is to play a mission without Infiltrate and find that you don't have enough room to deploy the Culexus and your 130 Guardsmen in the same deployment zone.

Most players only bring out the Culexus against an army with potent Psykers. But that's not the only place a Culexus shines; he's very effective against any opponent that's not Fearless.

HOW TO USE A CULEXUS.
I'm going to describe my two favorite methods of using a Culexus in my armies. I'm not going to describe the most common (and, in my opinion, least creative) use of the Assassin which is chasing down enemy psykers. You don't need to read a Tactica for that suggestion.

The Cardinal Fang (or: "Surprise, Fear and Ruthless Efficiency"): This tactic works best with "shooty" armies. I use it from time to time with Barrage, Torrent of Fire or Pinning armies (IG w/Mortars and Basilisks, WH+IG army with tons of Heavy Bolters, or Marines with FotA and Sniper Rifles are great examples).

In this instance, the Culexus is deployed alone. I deploy it last (after my other Infiltrators) and as close as possible to my enemy's lines. I prefer to choose a location 12.1" out of LOS (usually 6.1" into area terrain).

On my first turn, I advance the Culexus toward my opponent's army so that Souless affects the largest number of enemy units possible. Against a tightly packed army, I can often cover 2-4 units.

Now I concentrate all of my shooting at those units with the goal of causing as many Pinning and Morale checks as possible. Pinning checks against Barrages are resolved at LD6 and Morale checks will be at LD 6 or 7. There are games when my enemy finds himself with units running off the board on the first turn. I'll often leave my Culexus out of assault (especially if I have an advancing force) and rely on Etherium and Souless to keep him alive.

The Bag of Hammers (or: "How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Sweeping Advance"): This tactic is my favorite use of the Culexus. As an Eversor player, I use this tactic when I expect to face a large army that isn't Fearless (or when I hear someone grumble that the Culexus is useless).

I take a Culexus and 6 Deathcult Assassins. DCAs are Fearless and unaffected by Souless so they make ideal support troops. I deploy all seven Assassins via Infiltration on a flank (but not too far out). Keep in mind that all seven Assassins are separate units for shooting (and shooting past them requires a Target Priority check -- hopefully at LD7).

The goal in this instance is to assault the enemy with all seven Assassins in the same assault phase (usually turn 2). On the charge, the knot has 4 attacks from the Culexus and 24 Power Weapon attacks from the DCAs, all at I5. Since each Assassin is a separate unit in close combat, you can pretty easily clear your killzone without any attacks back.

Note: It's important to have at least one enemy model in base contact at the end of the assault phase, so model placement is critical. You want to cripple the enemy, but without losing base contact. To make sure this happens, resolve each Assassin's attacks individually. Don't get lazy and roll them all at once.

If you win the close combat (and you should, often without taking a single wound), you'll have 15 wounds to count when outnumbering your opponent. In most cases, this will give your enemy a massive Leadership penalty for his Morale check. And thanks to Souless, his base Leadership is 7.

If your opponent fails the check (and he should -- he's probably testing against a 3 or a 4), then you have SEVEN attempts to Sweeping Advance the unit using your average Initiative of 5.

Note: I'll talk more about Sweeping Advance and model placement when I cover Deathcult Assassins.

Next time: The Vindicare..

Project: Top Secret - Part 2

0 comments

So lets just start dropping some hints and see what folks can come up with.

I've been painting like mad, finishing up units, hacking up and reworking others, and doing minor touchups to still others. I have a deadline you see. In fact several of us here on the blog have deadlines, and plane tickets.

Time is running out, and WYSIWYG must be satisfied. I can say no more at this time, but i'm sure you can read between the lines.

Enjoy the pic of the fruit of my efforts from the last week.

-bigred

March 5, 2007

Ork Battlefortress, Part 5

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I began work on the side armor this week. I’ve built the two side plates and began attaching the rivets, and let me tell you, rivets are very time consuming. Measuring, marking, cutting, gluing, etc. It took over an hour just to do a single side panel. Anyways, I think it is turning out well, but I'm starting to dread the day when I have to paint it.

March 4, 2007

TACTICA: All About Assassins...

4 comments

"No World Shall be Beyond My Rule;
No Enemy Shall be Beyond My Wrath"

Assassins are one of the most feared and least understood units in the game. Everyone has a "fish tale" about a terrible experience with an Assassin, but like all good stories most have grown with the telling.

Used properly they are fun and effective, but they won't make your game (or break your opponent's spirit). Assassins allow an Imperial player to add a new element and a completely different style of play to his army quickly and cheaply. Assassins also move from one Imperial army to another easily, which allows you to get a head start on your next army. Finally, every player should understand how Assassins work because eventually you are going to face one and the more you know, the better prepared you will be.

I'll describe the basics of Imperial Assassins, including who can take them, when to take them, and which to choose. Assassins are a big subject, so I'll follow this article with a smaller post on each Assassin. In those posts, I'll cover the strengths, weaknesses and tips for using each of them.

WHO CAN TAKE AN ASSASSIN?
The most common way to get Assassins is to play a Witch Hunters or Daemonhunters army, but it's not the only way. Any Imperial army can take them, including Space Marines, Imperial Guard and ALL their variant lists (such Dark Angels, Black Templars, and Catachans). Yes, that means Assassins can be found in odd variations like Armored Companies, Mechanized Imperial Guard or Space Marine Drop Pod Assault armies. (Don't knock it until you've tried it.)

Note: Once you take an ally from the Witch Hunters or Daemonhunters Codex, you can only take allies from that codex or another Inquisition codex. That means you can have Sisters of Battle (C:WH) and Grey Knights (C:DH) in the same army, but you can't add Kroot Mercenaries (since they aren't from an Inquisition codex).

HOW DO I ADD AN ASSASSIN TO MY ARMY?
Imperial Assassins are 0-1 Elite choices for Inquisition armies and they require the presence of an Inquisitor Lord or Inquisitor. Deathcult Assassins are an Elite choice but do not have the 0-1 restriction. That means a Witch Hunters army with an Inquisitor Lord can take an Imperial Assassin (e.g., an Eversor) and six Deathcult Assassins.

If you have access, read the Using Witch Hunters as Allies sidebar (C:WH, p25) or the Using Daemonhunters as Allies (C:DH, p21). That section describes how any Imperial army can ally units from the respective codex. Since the UWHaA rules allow you to ally 0-1 Elite units, you can take a Deathcult Assassins unit or an Imperial Assassin.
Note: Most veterans remember the old "Allies" rules. There are no Allies rules in 4th Edition and the "no Allies" restriction is finally starting to disappear from tournaments. This use of the word Allies causes a tremendous amount of confusion. Finally, this year the Grand Tournament section is allowing the "Using Witch Hunters (and Daemonhunters) as Allies" rules, so expect to see a lot more members of the Inquisition in Imperial armies!
A player wishing to take an allied Assassin must also take an allied Inquisitor Lord. Unfortunately, it must be an Inquisitor Lord (as opposed to an Elite Inquisitor) because you are using your single Elite slot for the Assassin.

Note: There are a few players make a case for taking a 0-1 Elite Inquisitor from the Witch Hunters Codex and a 0-1 Elite Assassin from Daemonhunters Codex. Somehow they feel that twisting the RAW is a reasonable workaround for this very clear restriction. It's not. If you find yourself taking a long trip to avoid the rules, then you've gotten off the path.

A common mistake that non-Inquisitorial players make when take an allied Assassin is taking a "naked Inquisitor Lord with a couple of Familiars". Don't do that! You are just adding 60pts to the cost of your Assassin and getting nothing in return.

Instead take the time to build an effective addition to your army. For 100 more points, you can get a tough and dangerously effective unit. For some tips, review my Building an Inquisitorial Retinue Tactica post.

WHEN SHOULD I TAKE AN ASSASSIN?
Assassin are like salt. Not every dish needs it, but used properly it can take an existing "flavor" and intensify it. Like salt, Assassin are much better at improving an existing flavor (or strength) in your army than creating a new flavor.
For example, an assault army gets more benefit from an assault Assassin than from a shooting Assassin. An army of infiltrators benefit more from an infiltrating Assassin than a Deep Striking Assassin. But fortunately, there's an assassin that fits with (and improves) just about any army.

There is one thing that Assassin do better than any other unit and that is sew fear and confusion. Your opponent is going to worry about your Assassin. He's going to play every turn differently until it is dead. An opponent unaccustomed to Assassins is going to play more conservatively and he's going to make mistakes. Nothing disrupts your opponent's momentum more than something completely unknown and unexpected in their backfield. The psychological impact of an Assassin is often greater far than the damage the Assassin causes.

Take a look at your current army and identify your army's strength. Would an Eversor's first turn charge setup an assault for your fast attack units? Do you struggle with hidden Powerfists or Icon Bearers? Psykers and Synapse getting you down? Well there's a solution.

WHICH ASSASSIN SHOULD I TAKE?
In the next few articles, I'll cover each of the Imperial Assassin and Deathcult Assassins. But there are some aspects that are common to most (if not all) Assassins and I'll cover them here.

Common Mistakes:
1. All Assassins are Independent, but they are not Independent Characters. That means that they can be targeted like any other unit.
2. Of the Imperial Assassins only the Eversor has two close-combat weapons. This means that the Culexus, Callidus and Vindicare do not get the additional attack.
3. Assassins may only Infiltrate when the mission allows.
4. As Fearless units, Assassins suffer from No Retreat! if they lose a close combat.
5. Although armed with some of the finest weapons in the universe, Assassins distain the use of Frag Grenades. This means that the best killing machines in the Imperium can be defeated by the use of cover.

NEXT: THE EVERSOR ASSASSIN....

March 2, 2007

Eldar Titan Banner Logo Sheet

4 comments

Hi Everybody, I have had some requests for the Titan Banners I made for my Revenant Titan. I decided to go ahead and not only publish my Alaitoc banners, but expand them to cover all the major craftworlds. So without further ado here is the link to the PDF file for the Eldar Titan Banner sheet you can freely pull down and use:

Download Here

I created the original logos in Adobe Illustrator, then made variations of it for craftworlds.

What we have here is two different banners for each of the five craftworlds. The upper row is a kill-tally banner, while the lower row is the glyph representing the titan itself. I would print out two copies on highgloss color printer paper, cut out two pairs of banners for your chosen craftworld, then glue them together to make matching double-sided banners.

Hang them as you wish from your models. Alternatively, you might be able to scale these down on a printer and make smaller versions to decorate a Wraithlord. Look in the Blog's Eldar label for the original set of articles on my Revenant to see how I hung the banners.

In any case, enjoy and I wish you the best in using this set for your forces.

-bigred

Terrain Workshop: Bunkers

1 comments
Today’s terrain feature is all about bunkers. I used a very similar technique to the ork village, the main difference being that the walls are at an angle, rather than straight. All of the construction techniques were the same as the ork buildings (foam core, taping edges, wood filler texture, etc.). Too make the angle, I made the top of each wall, 1” shorter (at each end) than the bottom, to form a trapezoid. I then taped the edges as normal. For the windows, I cut several ¼” tall slits on all the walls and taped them down as well.

Because we no longer have square corners, we can’t use blocks to support the roof and walls. Before I glued anything together, I taped the roof and walls together, making sure the roof sat on top of the walls. I then went back and glued the pieces. The tape helps prevent a lateral tear as well as smoothing over the edges to make it look like a solid piece.


For the door, I cut a notch out of one of the walls about 1.25” wide. Once the rest of the bunker was assembled, I cut 2 triangular pieces to go on either side of the door notch. These should allow the door to be inset and vertical while the walls run at an angle. I cut the heads off of some crafting tacks and used them as rivets, and stole the door handle of off the imperial tank sprues.


The entire building was textured with the same wood filler that was used on the ork buildings. The whole piece was coated with a gray primer, then a dark grey wash and 2 shades of light grey dry brushing.

March 1, 2007

Iron Warriors Pre-Heresy Logo Sheet

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Here is number nine in a series of Pre-Heresy Traitor legion logos sheets you can use for your pre-heresy armies. Here is the link to the PDF file for the decal sheet you can freely pull down and use:

Download Here

I created the original logo in Adobe Illustrator, then made variations of it for size and color (outline and solid color versions). The sheet is designed for printout on Decal printer paper which is easily available online.

The thing about decal paper is that it is clear by default (instead of white), so the decals need to be applied to a light colored surface to be visible at all. The procedure for applying the "outline only" decals is to apply them to a white surface, and wait till they are fully dried. Then using the outlines as a guide, paint in the darker color around the decal. Its is odd, but gets the job done.

Size wise, the larger decals towards the top are best used for super heavies/terrain, and move down in size to the large array of Marine Shoulderpad towards the bottom. Finally there are large Roman numeral VIs all over the place. I use these to place on the opposite shoulderpad to indicate the Great Company number my forces are a part of. You could do that or use whatever you wanted on the opposite pad.

In any case, enjoy and I wish you the best in using this set for your forces.

-bigred

Project: Top Secret

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I wanted to give you all a little taste of what I'm working on right now. I can't go into detail at this early date, but lets just say that our blog's Top Secret Project is progressing onto PHASE:3.....

Let the speculation begin...

-bigred
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