TUTORIAL: Plaguebearer Speed Painting by Goatboy

Hi all,

Its time for a new painting article. Goatboy is back to show us his speedpainting technique yet again. While we all want to have beautiful Golden Daemon quality armies, at the end of the day I just like to get a nice paint scheme on my minis that is easy to do and looks good on the tabletop.

With that in mind, I’ve asked one of BoLS good friends Goatboy to show us what can be done by any one of us, regardless of painting skill level. His tough assignment was to paint up a squad of minis in 2 hours. He was to use methods that are easily replicated and look good on the tabletop. He accomplished it with flying colors. I present:

Speed Painting Plaguebearers in 12 Easy Steps!

Goatboy take it away:

Step 1
Black base. A broken ankle means I have to hand paint black. It sucks. I don’t really try to cover the whole model all that well. The plaguebearers are heavily detailed and it makes it a little bit annoying to get all the nooks and crannies filled with black. I try my best, water down the paint etc. Good thing I use a lot of washes to fill in the spaces

Step 2
Here I start the layering of brown. I decided to go with scorched brown as my first layer. It is pretty dark, and it has enough red to make it a more interesting brown. This is a heavy dry brush layer. What that means, is that I didn’t really pay attention to pull the brush along the raised edges. I wanted to cover the majority of the model and have tiny bits of black showing. It is easy, just do it messy

Step 3
Next I dry brush a layer of Calthan Brown. I go not as heavy as before, but enough to pull up the color from the scorched brown.

Step 4
Next up on the brown, is Vomit Brown and I dry brush a bit lighter and pull the brown to a higher color again.

Step 5
After that is Bubonic Brown. The dry brushing is lighter and pulls the color up higher, making the brown a gross throw-up color.

Step 6
Next I used the new wash Devlan Mud to darken the model and fill in the recesses. It brings the overall color down. It also unifies the browns, by placed a thin colored layer over them all. The biggest thing I have found with the washes, is that they do a great job of bringing all the colors together on the model.

Step 7
Here I added a contrasting color. This makes the model pop more, and gives it a much more interesting look. Just like my plague marines before, the red shoulder pads break up the monotony of the color scheme. Here I added Warlock Purple on the tongues and other fleshie bits. This is a good dark base, and for a purple color, and it really isn’t too guady.

Step 8
Next I did a highlight of Tentacle Pink on the warlock purple. This is just a lighter color, used to create a start contrast. Start contrast help make things look wet or gooey. Thus the reason I put it on tongues and other rotten flesh bits.

Step 9
Here I created another contrast color on the model. I painted a Snot Green on the edge of the swords. I wanted to give an otherworldly look to their plague swords.

Step 10
Next I highlight the green with an even more neon green color. I don’t know what the name of it would be in GW’s pallete, but shoot for something even brighter than the base color.

Step 11
Here I finished off the final highlight using my tried and trusted Antique white. I used it lightly to pull the highlights to the final level.

Step 12
Finally I add the Flesh Ink wash to the crevices of the model. This brings the dark parts down and creates even more of a 3d effect. Also the Flesh Ink creates more contrast within the shape of the model, and creates a nice sort of rusted, old look.

Total time to finish these five guys: 2 hours. If I had five more, it would have been about the same, due to having more of an ability to control the drying times. I find 10 models to be the best to work with in this assembly line manner. Once you get up to the 20’s it might be harder, but easily doable if you keep layering system fairly simple.

~The basic drybrushing with tight detail added in last is easy to replicate across a ton of different colors and models. This technique seen here in a brown color scheme lends itself well to CSMs, Orks, Tyranids, Necrons, IG, and many more. Almost any army out there that needs to look like its not factory fresh or parade ground polished can get from your hobby desk to the tabletop in record time with these methods. Lets hear it for Goatbay, and by all means go check out his blog for even more of his techniques.

  • Obo

    I miss the rumors threads ….

  • Anonymous

    @oboooooooooo

    Rumors can be found on any site.

    The bell has got a little something else. Painting tips,and even Mkerr being a know it all with his tacticas, are all very cool!

    Nice job goat-man-thing…

    ~anonymous

  • These look good, nice one

  • Anonymous

    Nice,
    though I would wish to see a speed paint guide for clean Marines. Actually easy to paint, it is still a pain in my ass to paint them quickly. I don’t know how to correctly drybrush and highlight simple Marines ^^

  • TheMightyFlip

    Scorpion Green is the brightest neon style green GW produces.
    Any chance of Daemonette speed painting?

  • I agree with anonymous 3:40, a (Loyalist) marine speed-painting guide would be great, I got a few thousand points of marines, and not a one painted! would be great to get some help/inspiration to get them done, as well as a little highlighting advice

    Great job by the way Goatboy!

  • Anonymous

    i wouldnt mind seeing him tackle a 20 boy mob of orks.. xD

    great job goatboy!

  • Anonymous

    goatboy,

    Nice work. . . I have a similar process for my grungy orks that looks great. I will share with you guys some day when I have time.

    Helpful comment: when taking pictures of dark models, you need to have a dark background for the photos. The only picture that has good contrast for looking at the color is the last one, where you have a wood background. It’s not a coincidence. . . the white paper towel just throws modern digital cameras for a loop. It will make the paper white and make everything else black just to keep the overall saturation in the range it wants. Sorry about the ankle; just use dark cardboard if you can’t up and fetch a nice piece of black felt to use as a backdrop. 🙂

    RTM

  • Trollface666

    Thank you very much for your time and effort Goatboy!

  • Great work Goatboy! I too would find it entertaining to see Goatboy do a mob of 20 Orks in two hours!

  • I miss the rumors threads to…

    But this happens when we get right up against a major launch date… most of the news is out and now its just waiting for the actual release.

    There will be more rumors coming soon… there always are 🙂

  • This kind of painting tutorial is great, but these techniques only work on “messy” looking models like Plaguebearers and Plague Marines. What I would really appreciate would be some tips on how to paint my codex marines in nice, bright colors and clean lines quickly.

  • Painting marines can be easy as well. All I did for my dark angels was base coat them black then find a dark green spray them with that. Drybrush some lighter green, then again with even lighter/brighter green lightly. Paint the guns and any other part that is special and I did the hand painted shoulder pad stuff but you can pass on that.

    It should work similarly for any other chapter just find a spray that would be a good dark or light in some cases base to go by. You could even toss a new wash in there before the drybrushing.

    They wont be the best marines ever, but if you do it right they will come out quickly and rather clean.

  • Great work Goatboy, I will have to try this technique some time!

    It sure would save me a lot of time.

    All the best,

    73rd

  • Thanks for the comments.

    Plans right now are to try and do small squads for each race, as I get a chance to grab some models. If people have models laying around, 5 at the minimum, I would be more than happy to look for a way to do them quickly and efficiently.

    For marines, I would use washes and try to just build some smooth layers, with a tiny bit of dry brush on some of the more detailed areas. But when I get a chance to grab some I will try to bust out some painting.

    I have an ork biker how too I did that can show you how I approach painting skin etc on my blog. I think it is a few weeks back, but it gives the same ideas on how I would tackle a mob of boyz. And for the record, you need to paint 30 boyz, not 20 heh.

  • What would people want for a chapter if someone were to do a loyalist quick paint tutorial?

  • Anonymous

    I did do 80 fantasy orcs in a week thay look realy good. I started with DA green then dry brushed gob green then red gore over leather then blood red over the red gore to get a realy good deep red color. Then went over the metel bts with black and finaly the same bits with watered down bolt metel. finaly picked out the pants with blue for some contrast. over all they look great did some hand paint on the banners. and the bloody gummz tribe was done.

  • Anonymous

    one prob GW doesn’t produce inks anymore… well apparently

  • Fantastic job….will be using a few of the techniques on my plaguebearers

  • Anonymous

    Hey Goatboy, nice work on the quick painting guide. I do feel the need to let you know that the correct term is stark (as in extreme or severe) contrast, not start contrast.