7 Deadly Hobby Sins

repent

Pimpcron explores some things you could be doing wrong.


Let’s burn some holy incense, don our robes, and jump right into that confession booth! It’s time that you and Bishop Pimpcron had a little talk.
So, it should be no surprise to any of us that this hobby is a lot more intensive than many others. Magic’s cards are already printed, Heroclix and Attack Wing are already painted, and Pogs come decorated as well. (Geez, does anybody remember Pogs? I had a sweet metal Slammer.) Meanwhile, we literally have to assemble our game long before ever playing it. (Check out 40K: The Hobby That Hates You) But obviously not everybody is willing or interested enough in hobbying to be on the same level. Here’s some sins that I’ve seen in my travels and how you can repent:

Gray Legions

This is the most obvious and common one you’ll see. I’m not talking about an army in progress, with some models painted and some unpainted. I’m talking about the owner of said army not even knowing which way to hold a brush. It could be argued that you are making a social contract when your opponent when you play a game of 40k. You both are agreeing to try to simulate a semi-realistic strategic battle using miniatures and terrain. Of course it’s your hobby and you can either paint or don’t paint how you want, but it is really kind of a letdown when you show up with a fully painted army and face a Gray Tide. Here you’ve poured hundreds of hours into your army and end up having the mood killed by someone who has literally put no effort into his. His gets the benefit of seeing a really cool spectacle fighting against him and you get to see unpainted metal and plastic. Obviously, just because you might spend a ton of time on your army doesn’t obligate everyone else to do the same, but it’s a letdown nonetheless.

unity guard-800x500

How To Repent: Nobody can tell you that you must paint your army, but I think the least everyone could do is pick a base color you like and spray paint the whole army that color. At least at that point you have the base colors down and that will make it that much easier to paint if the mood strikes you sometime.

Crappy Terrain

I have been to so many gaming stores that have only a few foam discs of barely painted, unflocked “hills” for terrain.  I know that terrain can be expensive in an already-expensive hobby, but what is the point of even painting your army if you put them on a bare board? Or spending all of the time to assemble and paint your army just to have them fight in a landscape that looks like a cartoon? I don’t want to come off as a “terrain snob” but I have the same feeling about people who don’t even try to paint their armies as I do about people who put zero effort into terrain.

icup_09105_POPIt’s a tree.

How To Repent: I know that money is tight for a lot of people and putting money into their army is the top priority, but it really does kill the mood when your terrain is crap. I would say at the bare minimum you should buy a hill or two, at least one area terrain piece like a woods, and two buildings for terrain from some terrain maker on eBay or something. This will give you the bare minimum of different terrain types that will make your game look better. Of course there are countless discussions on how to make your own terrain (Trash Into Objectives!, Project: Underground Bunker) if you want save some money. As for tips on how to set up a sweet battlefield with terrain theory, check this one out Terrain as the Third Player. Okay, enough website pimping from the Pimpcron.

No Army Transport

Let’s all face it, at some point we’ve done this; or continue to do so. Just have some sort of box or container with a mound of abused miniatures in it, rolling around in there. For my models that aren’t painted yet, I don’t really care if they roll around just a tad because my painted models get first priority in the transport. If there is room after the painted ones are in, then sure the bares ones get in there. But I’ve seen so many people just toss fully painted models into Tupperware containers. Then they just tumble around in there during transport, chipping paint and snapping off spindly bits. Ugh. And while R. Kelly may not have seen nothin’ wrong with a little bump and grind, it makes me cringe. I mean, at the end of the day I guess it’s your funeral if you don’t want to take the time or money to buy or make an acceptable transport for your painted minis.

box100g
How To Repent: The very least you could do to keep my heart from hurting when I see you mistreat your models is to buy some bubble wrap for your Tupperware. Put one layer down, cover it in minis, then put another layer down, etc. This will mostly keep your stuff from being damaged and you might look slightly homeless with your ghetto transport. At least you can say you tried. Not very much, but tried nonetheless.

Priming With White

I’m sure many of you “white primers” are gawking at this notion and about to disagree, but hear me out. For experienced painters white can be very helpful, and it obviously can help as a base coat for lighter colors versus black. But for the vast majority of regular skill-level hobbyists, white is a bad idea to start your paint job. I’m not going to get into a huge diatribe about this because I’m sure you can find hours of opinion on it on the web. But suffice it to say, there has been more than one new player that I see them paint their army white, I warn them not to, and they don’t listen. Then three months later they come back and say, “Wow, I started priming with black and it is so much easier!” The reason for this is shading. When you prime black and dry brush color, the color doesn’t get far into the recesses of the model and simulates shading. But when you prime white, then paint your color you want, you have to then add shading through washes, etc. Why go that extra step if you’re new?

Primer
How To Repent: Do yourself a favor and prime with black unless you either: are an experienced painter, or the main color of your army calls for it (like if your army is a light color).

Mixing Colors

Another thing I would not suggest for the average hobbyist is mixing colors for your main army color. The problem is, unless you are very meticulous with measuring different pigments, you will have a very hard time making the same color in the future. Then your army won’t be consistent. One of my closest friends did this with his Tau army and now regrets the fact that his army looks a bit different unit to unit. I know there are plenty of different ways to do it right, but it is definitely not suggested for “regular people”.

paint_splatter
How To Repent: Do yourself a favor and create your army’s look around pre-made colors offered by GW or someone else. That way you can always go back and get more. That is, until GW wants to rebrand their paints again and change everything slightly. Psshhh. I still miss my Asurman Blue wash. Some would suggest using P3 paints or Army Painter because they supposedly don’t discontinue paints.

Bad Proxies

This is also probably something we’ve all done at some point. This shoe box counts as a Land Raider. This salt shaker is my Commisar. These Raisinets count as my Fire Warriors. You get the point. But the problem is when things take a ghetto turn and you never buy the model you are proxying. Like I’ve said in other articles, proxying a Dark Eldar Raider for a Ravager is really no big deal. Or a Rhino for a Razorback. But I know many people who have just never taken the initiative to get the real models that they have proxied for years. And while you really can’t hate on anybody in this hobby who may not have the funds to buy these awfully expensive models, there should be some sort of time limit on proxies.

41XZjIgQmWL._SY300_

Grey Knight Paladins

How To Repent: Um, try to get the real models eventually. Or at the very, very least make sure your proxies are good imitations of what you are trying to represent. Try to make sure they have roughly the same size profile for line of sight purposes, and absolutely put them on the correct size base for template reasons.

Not Listening To The Pimpcron

Any person I see not listening to my warnings will be mailed an angry letter and a picture of me looking at the camera all stern-like. I write these things for your own good; Papa Pimpcron is just looking out for you. And even though I know I’m not your *real* father, your mother and I care about you and want you to be happy, Slugger.
What other lazy stuff have you seen?
Want to witness my slow descent into madness first-hand? Check out my blog at www.diceforthedicegod.com

Pimpcron Signature
  • effinger2

    Good list. I would have written the same things except… transport. I tell new players to do it but if they don’t think it is worth the time I DON’T care. That’s their problem now. The situation is very clear to normal people. “You can lead a horse to water but you can’t make him drink.”

    • Nameless

      most of my armies are in tupperware containers, there ares simply too many models for any other method of storage, that said with a layer of mat varnish and keeping metal models elsewhere (in proper storage boxes) I don’t see many if any paint chips, and it is very very rare for models to break.

      • euansmith

        Orkz play better when delivered to the table in tupperware containers… I actually thought I was being pretty swish trading up from a big cardboard box to individual tubs for each mob.

        • Nameless

          I feel as an infantry guard player, I need my opponent to know just how many tiny men I have at my disposal and how little I care for their well being.

          still separate boxes for each mob? sounds fancy

          • euansmith

            Six boxes, on for each mob… casualties are scooped up and tossed back into their starting box… deployment is facilitated by emptying the individual boxes on to the table… speeds the whole process up 😀

          • effinger2

            Well it sure does speed things up!

          • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

            plastic takeaway curry containers I hope not poncy tupperware!

            My armies live in a bunch of vintage fold out blue steel toolboxes, with bubblewrap in the bottom of the trays. Vehicles in the bottom, infantry in the top trays. Makes me look like a real man who knows how to mend things, and they are so heavy carrying them any distance gives me manly muscles. Its not a bad solution though, and cheap.

          • euansmith

            😀 I had one of those for carry minis too; back in the 1980’s they were THE transport solution among ancients wargamers. You couldn’t walk around a tournament without barking your ankles on a toolcase sticking out awkwardly from under a table.

          • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

            I’ve had some of mine since the 1980s, does that make me an ancient wargamer?

          • euansmith

            Have you killed an albatross?

          • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

            its hanging round my neck as we speak.

          • euansmith

            It’s official then… no wonder you are so resigned…

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        • petrow84

          Orks are best delivered on and off-table with pizza peels. Especially in an Ork-AM match.

      • Aezeal

        I’d say you should get a big plastic box and buy some of the foam used in house building, the real soft isloation stuff. It’s only a few bucks for a few square feet and you could litteraly get like 6 thick sheet for a big plastic box and you could carry your army pretty savely.
        My woodelves get sprayed green or green/gray.

        • Nameless

          I find the soft foam often rubs taking paint of models, certainly with my metal models, this has been a problem. I am so glad that they have nearly been completely phased out.

  • Matthew

    Black is a better primer. Grey is even a better choice than white if you want to lighten up some.

    • V10_Rob

      I prime black to hit every surface (go in with a brush for hard to reach spots), then give them a zenithal spray of light grey.

      • I have wondered if that would work. . .

        • V10_Rob

          YMMV depending on your painting style.

          It does the job for me, helps highlight the spots that should be highlighted. Putting inks and washes straight over this priming can create interesting effects, too.

          • davepak

            It can work, its called ‘pre-shading’ and works if your base color is not super thick or dark.

            Some great affects can happen as well with inks etc. Rob is correct – but I always suggest trying it out on test models first, in case you don’t like the look.

    • davepak

      it all depends on the methods and colors for the other layers.

      As pointed out, the primer DOES indeed affect the outer layers – some of my armies do well with a dark primer, others with a white, and one, even a grey.

      The “better choice” is learn as much as you can about painting, so you can decide which color works best for your methods.

    • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

      White, with a very heavy black wash is good. Gives shading but makes the highlights brighter and the detail easy to see.

  • MightyOrang

    thank you for posting an article that has nothing to do with bashing on Games Workshop.

    agree with all points – – and would add the following:

    1. buying too many models at once. This creates mental stress and dissuade you from painting, whereas buying and painting one unit at a time can be tremendously satisfying

    2. Buying Games Workshop paints. callers are wonderful but the bottles are designed to dry out. The one exception to that rule for me is there washes, which are superb.

    3. not having a dedicated hobby space. if you’re able, set up a small workstation and leave it set up. i’ll get a lot more work done

    • Dave

      #3 is so important for keeping up with things. As my kids get bigger my house gets smaller. The simple act of getting all my stuff out and setting up a hobby spot is a pain and discourages me too often. We’ve started looking for a new home and a hobby space is my sticking point :-). Oh…I meant to say an “office”..heh

      • Aezeal

        Lol once my kids get bigger I might dare to create a hobbyspace with glue, knives and paint and leave it set up… not now though.

      • Another Biased Opinion

        Indeed – we are looking at a new house and my wife is good enough that when she suggests one it has ‘a room for all your toys/rubbish’.

    • addendum to sin 2: Buying GW hobby materials.

      their cutters and brushes are cute but terribly overpriced.
      For tools – visit a hardware store.
      For brushes try Armypainter, Revell, Tamiya, anything but Citadel.

      • Another Biased Opinion

        I wouldn’t even go to other model makers brushes – my favourite brush is a sable Winsor & Newton

        • effinger2

          Me too! The ‘hobby’ brushes are good for basing coating/dry brushing. Anything else I use quality brushes and always wash the brushes afterwards with brush soap. Worth every penny.

        • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

          yes, W&N are great. Citadel detail brushes are OK though if you get a good one, they are long lasting.

      • MightyOrang

        Amen!

    • D_Ork

      On your #1 I generally agree, but there are times when you need an army box, or when there’s a good deal on eBay, etc. In those cases I just try to keep the extra models in their box and out of sight. I -do- have a hard rule about not playing a model in a game until it is finished. For me, if a model has seen combat, it’s done. Not sure why.

    • Meeee

      GW SUCKS!
      There you go.

    • Another Biased Opinion

      I would disagree with parts of #2 I am currently using the Skull White and Chaos Black from a Citadel Colour paint set found that I had brought in the 90s… (all of the other colours are still good too)

      • MightyOrang

        I still have working pots if GW from the 90s … and lots from the last five years that are totally dried out. Their colors are great, but I’ll stick with Vallejo for durability.

      • Jooster

        That’s actually why they changed the pots. People weren’t coming back for more until they used their paint, and with people buying less that meant they lasted longer. The old pots were simply “too” efficient.

    • Morgrim

      GW metallics are also some of the best in the business. There are some companies with very good silvers and golds, but GW are the current leaders on the bronzes. I’m not sure why.

    • Vomkrieg

      3. is the opposite for me. I have a totally portable hobby space, that packs away. I paint while the TV is on in the main living room. Usually while my partner watches bad sci-fi reruns or while i listen/watch documentaries. I like having someone to talk to or listen to while i paint.

      If that was a permanent setup, it would get in the way when we had people over.

  • Ed Butlar

    I think constantly whining about everything GW ever produces could be another.

    • Meeee

      Dude. You need to learn how to care less about what people on the internet think/type.

      • euansmith

        How can you say that, you BRUTE!!!

  • D_Ork

    Gray Legions:

    Years ago I watched a man at a GW buy an entire Tau army at
    once. He walked from the register to the table, pulled each model off the sprue, assembled it, and placed the model on the gaming table AS HIS DEPLOYMENT.

    • Lost on nocturne

      That’s amazing and terrifying all at once.

    • Meeee

      Well. It works for X-Wing.

    • That guy is scary. I’m not sure why, but probably because only a crazy person would do that.

    • grim_dork

      Like a sealed starter deck.

    • davepak

      Well, what amazes me the most was that the other player was willing to wait ….

  • ghazdreg

    I have been playing tabletop games in some form or another for 14 years and I only recently started playing against other people at my FLGS. It has been nice to have some varied competition, but it was shocking to me that so few people actually paint their stuff. Why spend hundreds or thousands on an army if you are just going to leave it naked?
    Even people who can only achieve potato quality can make a decent looking tabletop army with some base colors and washes. In the time it takes to build a cardboard box full of naked plastic, you can have a common scheme for your army that includes a little shading and highlighting and looks better than 80% of the armies you will play against.
    For the non-believers out there; just look up a youtube tutorial on how to paint one of the units in your army and follow it. Once you’re done, put the model next to one of its unpainted kin and feel your heart swell with pride at what you’ve created. Then its just base coat, wash, (etc) repeat!

    • kobalt60

      i am giving a ‘like’ for the phrase ‘potato quality’

    • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

      I find the culture of painting varies from club to club and store to store here. Some clubs you’ll never see an unpainted model.

  • BonesoftheDesert

    Totally with you Mighty, I’m guilty of the, ‘pile of boxed minis’ myself, which does kill motivation.
    And agreed PC, PRIME THOSE MINIS. I refuse to play unless I’ve at least hit ‘m with a basecoat of something and one other color. Like you said, it’s a courtesy to other players and helps ‘keep the mood’. Plus it really helps motivate to get them finished. “Yeah, a little more black there” followed by, “Oh yeah! Some yellow here” and *poof* you’re tabletop ready.
    Terrain: I’m throwing out the computer/electronic styrofoam pieces. Quick ‘n dirty city terrain/walls, spray paint to get the basic color. I tear out chunks when they get damaged and pain them like the weapon that hit ‘m (black for explosive, black/bluish tinge for plasma, etc). Cheap and easy.
    Great article PC!

  • Charon

    I guess “Not cleaning up models” is another. If I look at models I painted 17 years ago, I still think “how the hell did I not see these mold lines?”

    • Maus

      I often think that about five minutes after I’ve applied the last bit of varnish…

      • TheMCP Angel

        Yeah, what he said… And sometimes it’s so obvious ^^

      • euansmith

        Just after I post a photo to a forum… that’s when my moldlines all jump out and punch me in the face.

  • standardleft

    One thing that really really annoys me is the pile in move.

    Where an unsavoury opponent shoves his spike unpainted cultists into my meticulously painted guys.

    I know you have 30 of them and you don’t want to place them all individually, but please they are scratching all my things!

    • Maus

      Yeah, file that one alongside “don’t touch another person’s models unless you’re invited to do so.”

      • standardleft

        Oh god! the Cheeto encrusted fingers.

        • TumbleWeed

          Cheeto dust, the glitter of the culinary world…

          • euansmith

            😀 😀 😀

          • Mr.Gold

            In our store it tends to be Jelly Baby Time at approx 4pm – thus at 4.01pm models end up playing in a blizzard (white sugar)…

      • effinger2

        I played a guy (a nice guy actually) that ordered a pizza in the middle of the game. Okay fine he missed supper. He was eating the pizza during the game and moving his own stuff around with greasy fingers! I asked him if he noticed (which was impossible to miss) and he said he was okay. I was afraid he’d grab my stuff. He explained that he ‘dipped’ his army so he wasn’t worried about the grease. He said… and I’m NOT joking… that he could take his army outside to the driveway and hose it down afterwards! Yikes. I believed him.

        • davepak

          Heh…I would be worried to soil my rule book.

          I can say, that I have experimented with dipping, and if it works for what you want to do (it does not for everyone) then one byproduct is a VERY protective layer on your minis.

    • Spheal With It

      Can I add in pocking my models with the end of a tape measure whilst trying to measure distances?

  • Byungwook Kim

    Funny no one mentions using recast models..

    • Lost on nocturne

      Why would they?

      • Byungwook Kim

        Because in the GWs perspective, there are no greater sin?

        • Meeee

          You are right. We just don’t give a $hi£.

          • TheMCP Angel

            If someone really is able to call out my recasts, i’ll remove them as casuqlties ^^

        • Emprah

          3rd party companies are worse for GW, and this is a player to player no-do list.

          GW doesn’t care if you use white or black basecoat, as long as its GW.

    • rfinkle

      What’s wrong with recasts?

      • Byungwook Kim

        Nothing. I enjoy them too. I’m a vip customer at aliexpress.

        • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

          are they still selling models? Thought they had stopped.

          • Byungwook Kim

            Where there is demand, chinese always find a way..

          • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

            the recaster I know of sells through his own site/gallery, but I thought Aliexpress had been cleaned up of recasters. Or am I wrong and there is some secret corner of Aliexpress? Do tell!

          • Knight_of_Infinite_Resignation

            oh just looked and found a few things, good.

    • crusader284

      Because it doesn’t really matter, as long as they are the same scale.

    • I have no problem with recasts.

  • Lost on nocturne

    Once saw someone put down 2 rubber ducks on bases to represent 2 riptides, he argued that they were the exact shape and size and even measured them to his actual riptide. The tale of ducktides killing thunderwolfs continues to this day at our flgs.

    • Spheal With It

      Amazing!

    • effinger2

      I once played a game with my orcs/goblins vs. Demons in WFB years ago. During set up the demon player used a Bloodletter as a stand-in for a Greater Demon of Khorne. I was befuddled and asked him what ‘that’ was. He explained he didn’t have a Bloodthurster and was NEVER going to buy one because GW was trying to rip him off. I put out a goblin archer to represent my Giant (even though I was actually going to use my painted Giant). He got kind of annoyed when I explained what the goblin represented. I told him I was lazy and my Giant needed a rest for this game anyway. He said, “Well at least MY models is red and not green!” I him, “Good for you.” That game didn’t go well. 🙂

    • http://i.imgur.com/It8bdnZ.png
      That is hilarious!

      • Lost on nocturne

        To this day quacking at the guy he played as a tendency to get him to do a very good wolfenden impression

  • Malevengion

    I don’t know if it’s a “sin” but converting your model to abuse true LOS is a pet peeve of mine. Seeing tau Crisis Suits modeled to be squatting on their base so they are the same height as the Fire Warriors kind of takes the verisimilitude out of it for me.

    • Shardak

      True Line of Sight is the problem really – it encourages crappy behaviour like modelling for advantage and quibbling over millimetres of terrain. Things which really do not need to be encouraged.

      • Malevengion

        I’ve been lucky that the people I’ve played against have been easy going on LOS. We play, if in doubt take the shot. The Tau player, to the best of my knowledge, doesn’t pose his figures for advantage anymore since it blocked his shots as often as it saved him from fire.

        • Mr.Gold

          use an inpartial judge if unsure (spectators)

          • Malevengion

            Good advice, luckily we don;t usually get to that point and settle it like gentlemen (10 paces turn and fire 🙂 )

    • lol. One of our gaming friends had a “leaping” riptide that was nearly horizontal. I didn’t care for that.

  • Damon Sherman

    Thau shall not besmirch the name of white primer. If you ever painted in water colors, you can paint with white primer. It just uses more thin layers than just globbing over black paint.

    • euansmith

      Some of those water colour paint jobs, what I think of a “French” or “Confrontation” paint jobs, are truly amazing.

  • James DeGrey

    I don’t think
    there is any excuse for Crappy Terrain. I find that most people have either time or
    money, if you have money great, there’s load of pre-built and even pre-painted
    terrain out there. However most of the best terrain I have ever used is
    handmade it takes a lot of time but you
    can make really good terrain for essentially free!

  • euansmith

    I don’t play with unpainted minis… it seems wrong.

    I undercoat/base coat with a rattle can full of my minis main colour; some times I then spray the bottom third of the mini and its base in an earth/concrete colour as appropriate. Then I paint in the exposed flesh, pouches, weapons, etc; before applying some wash. Job done!

    I like making terrain, and I’ve seen some amazing stuff made from basic household rubbish (not food scrapes… unless you play Nurgle or ‘Nid). It can be a nice relaxing change of scale from painting minis. My favourite terrain making tool is a pot of premixed filler/spackle; which has a multitude of uses. My main issue with terrain is storage.

    I suggest acquiring your storage containers prior to making anything and then making your terrain to fit in to the container. It is so easy to get carrier away with some cool piece of building, only to find you can’t transport or store it properly.

    • Guido Hockmann

      +1! How many of my ruined buildings get more ruined between games amazes and depresses me.

  • Commissar Molotov

    If you really wanna get fancy, prime your minis white and then take a coarse brush with some black primer and hit the undersides of the model’s surfaces. Boom – instant shading and highlighting for the colors you paint on top!

    • Damon Sherman

      not really, but a good wash could achieve a similar effect.

      • Commissar Molotov

        It’s a fast way to paint horde armies – my old 2nd edition Orks were painted this way. Worked well!

    • Benderisgreat

      You’ll never get into the mold lines and deeper areas that way, though.

      • Commissar Molotov

        No, it’s subtle – works better on models with their legs striding forward or braced wide apart (like the old plastic Orks) because there’s more “underside” to work with. I’m gonna try it on a mainly-gaunt Tyranid force next and see how it works with lighter colors.

        • euansmith

          PICTURES!!!

          • Commissar Molotov

            Will do!

  • euansmith

    Thanks to his Pimpness of Cron for another diverting read.

    • Thanks for reading euansmith! You’ve become such a regular commentor that I look for your comments now. lol

  • Merca84

    You should add ” Picking people’s minis without their consent”

    • euansmith

      That’s a Mortal Sin…

      • rfinkle

        Not even the Pope can give forgiveness for that one.

        • TumbleWeed

          Technically the Pope can’t give forgiveness for mortal sins, that only comes from God through Christ.
          Boom, crucified….

          • euansmith

            And it only works if you are TRULY contrite…

          • TumbleWeed

            Amen brother! Mad respect for the use of contrite, you are a gentleman and a sir.

        • euansmith

          Its in the bible… “Thou shalt not paw thine opponents sweet tabletop ready minis with thine sweaty mitts, for this is anathema and thy Lord God is a vengeful God.”

    • crusader284

      ESPECIALLY if they are clumsy. Man, I had to hold in a Khorne Berserker rage when someone dropped mine.

      • Mr.Gold

        the local Nid’s player decided to mark where his two flyrants are placed in a game and put the flyrants somewhere safe on the table (replacing when needed), after one too many times of falling off a tall building when someone bumped the table.

    • Oh god, yes! Doubly so for metal / hybrid minis and those guys with the especially flimsy plastic parts.

      • euansmith

        “Oh, wow! Is that one of those amazing new models from Infamy… [ping… tinkle]… ooops, sorry… these bits are very… [ping… tinkle]… delicate, aren’t they…”

        “Just… put… it… down… CAREFULLY!”

        “Sure… [ping… tinkle]… ooops… [ping… tinkle]…”

    • Another Biased Opinion

      Even when I have permission from the owner to move the model it freaks me out, especially as now it is very difficult to tell the difference between metal and plastic, I have almost dropped metal minis as I expected them to be lighter.

    • Mr.Gold

      and dice…

    • Keith Chamberlain

      One opponent I faced would “flick” my models over with his finger when they were killed! I played exactly two turns against him and never again.

    • That is a good one. That is what one of those jerks did in my very-flamed article dealing with jerks did. He would think he killed something and just hand the models to me and say “take them, they’re dead.” I would have questions about AP or something and he’d just cut me off and say “they’re dead.” That was the player that I have a rivalry with now. It makes it a lot more fun to play him.

  • Emprah

    I usually prime with grey, but at first I mixed my a Merchrite red and Blood red 50-50 mix to get my Blood Ravens painted and washed with Baal red.
    Now I basecoat Mephiston red and use Vallejo airbrush as a wash and the results are much better.
    So the GW paint change really worked out well for me.

    As for terrain, you really can kitbash something together from whatever scrap you have around the house.
    An ork fort made out of simple modelling plastic sheets costs at worst ten dollars.
    This may be easier for fellow ork players than the rest though.

    • euansmith

      I think after a few decades of endless war, pretty much any planet will come to resemble a large Ork encampment.

  • HAROLD COWAN

    Pimpcron said; “These Raisinets count as my Fire Warriors.”
    Yum! Considerate Opponent provides in-game snacks! Eat what you kill!

  • TheMCP Angel

    Regarding unpainted or wip-models we have a simple rule to motivate us further. Everyone gets Preferred Enemy (wip) and reroll hits/wounds (unpainted) 🙂
    We also only proxy to decide which setup/loadout to build next.

    • euansmith

      Those rules I like; though nicely converted models should get their choice of USR.

    • Nameless

      one problem with penalising unpainted armies is that many armies are very different from each other. for example the player with an elite centurion army list he found online and built only those models might only have 20 or so models to paint, but the ork player who likes to collect and change up his army might have a few hundred models to paint.

      clearly the ork player will need to spend more time to avoid being obliterated by all of the twin linked shredding weapons.

  • Benderisgreat

    These disaffected, drunken, chain-smoking Frenchmen count as my Eldar.

    • Victor Hartmann

      Hopefully they are also disinfected . . .

      • Benderisgreat

        They wouldn’t be authentically French, then.

    • euansmith

      “Chose your next words with extreme care…”

    • Shiwan8

      Can you think of a more fitting proxy?

      • Benderisgreat

        No, because people from Quebec aren’t Eldar enough.

  • petrow84

    Agreed on everything, except priming. If you don’t want to experience the pain of painting 5- to infinite layers of white upon your black-brown-grey-whatever priming, use white. White shoulder guards on your Black Templars, and Menoth Infantry are my prime examples (no pun intended).

  • Another Biased Opinion

    I have been guilty of the Grey legions, but that was only as I had just started up the hobby again and hadn’t painted everything and wanted to play. Now I make every effort to have at at the very least a main base coat, but I still feel bad when my army isn’t fully painted.

  • kontael

    I agree that white primer is not good for someone who doesn’t have painting experience, but you literally just suggested to leave primer showing on the model.
    That is a far greater hobby sin. How dare you, take of your papel robes you daemon in disguise!

    • Redrum

      • Robert Houghton

        All work and no Hobby make Jack something something. …

  • Drew

    I agree about taking the time to paint your minis- it’s an integral part of the hobby, but I would add the following sin:

    – Treating another player like your hobby is better than theirs.

    There’s a guy at my FLGS who absolutely, under no circumstances, WILL NOT play against unpainted/based minis. Not even if the mini is the cool new thing someone JUST purchased and assembled on the release day, not even if it’s a squad that Monday he sees grey, Tuesday sees primed, and by Thursday has basecoats and is on the way to washes, he will not cut “work in progress” armies an inch of slack. More importantly, he’s openly disdainful of the idea, and I think that’s just rude.

    • standardleft

      Whats his painting skill like?

      • Drew

        In my opinion, his stuff is fine, but not exceptional. Good, not great, I guess? But that’s just my $.02. He’s very proud of his stuff, has clearly put in a lot of work, and while not incredible, it looks nice on the tabletop- what more can you really ask for, I guess?

    • Timothy Kennedy

      Personally I prefer to play with and against a painted army, this guy seems a bit OTT though. Still last time I was in a store, there were 4 games going on, with 5 painted units among them

    • That dude is ridiculous.

  • Andrew Thomas

    My FLGS carries a German model paint line that has a few colors that map to some of GW’s older colors. As to proxy to hard copies, consignment is your friend, especially if your FLGS offers a blanket discount on the models you need, as that sets the ceiling on the price a given model will likely sell. And there’s no shame in a Monopoly Pawn army, at least as far as paint jobs go; base, drybrush, wash (optional), DONE.

  • Gray Legions since 1998, deal with it nerd.

  • Drew_Da_Destroya

    I pretty rarely paint, I’m just not very confident in my paintbrush abilities. However, I do spend a ton of my hobby time converting and scratch building my models. Does this lessen my Grey Tide from a Deadly Sin to at least a Venal? I mean, they get the spectacle of murdering my unpainted but totally kustom Kommandos or laughing at my Flash Gitz cobbled together from about 20 different kits (none of which were the new Flash Gitz set, which would’ve been super helpful but wasn’t out at the time). That’s gotta be worth something, at least.

    • I appreciate conversions. That’s awesome, but most would say you still need to put some paint em brother. But to each, his own.

      • Drew_Da_Destroya

        Yeah, that’s fair, buuuuut I’m too busy cutting and bashing and gluing. I’ll get to painting one day. Fo’ real. I promise. Right after I finish my kustom Lootaz… and then maybe the Stompa after that… and I kinda want an updated Dredd… and that half-trakk trukk idea that’s kicking around…

        Dammit, I’m never getting around to painting.

        • Despite what I said above, it’s your hobby man. Have fun and enjoy yourself.

          • Drew_Da_Destroya

            Will do, my metal man!

        • Robert Houghton

          What can be done in this case is find a friend who is good at painting and wants flash looking custom minis but is too busy painting. Exchange abilities.

    • Brian Griffith

      Oh, I sympathize with that. I do paint, but sourcing just the right bits to ensure that I’ve got a unique looking army adds a not insignificant amount of time and money to getting it done.

  • Orblivion

    On the primer issue, I buy colored primer. Priming and base coat done in one quick step, problem solved 🙂

  • Spacefrisian

    Those are epic proxies, should have told me sooner i would have used those for my Imp…Astra Militarum.

  • nurglespuss

    Lol, the priming white and the mixing colours? Ha ha ha! When I were young the only priming colour was white, and you had to mix colours lol! Priming white or black (I go for greys) is fine, new or old, in face if you want to learn to paint ‘properly’ white is the easier, just have to work on neatness, and washes are ace nowadays.

  • eehaze

    Khorne Daemonkin players: “I painted this Daemon Prince red, so he’s a Bloodthirster. This Daemon Prince isn’t painted at all, but he’s also a Bloodthirster.”

  • Bill Anderson

    Good suggestions. But I am not going to pay $50 for two grav cannon figures to replace the lascannons in my 5 marine companies.

  • Rob van Dijk

    One time a guy asked me if he could use proxies. i agreed, so we could play a game. Then he showed up with pieces of paper the size of a rhino. That was when I drew a line and said no. I just lowered my points and then obliterated him literally! Obliterators FTW!

  • Bill Anderson

    After reading “40k the hobby that hates you” I hate GW even more for squatting WHF and continually adding bigger more expensive 40k models to what was once a relatively simple fun and affordable game. I have 20,000+ figures all painted. We are customers and have invested in their product. We deserve better.

  • davepak

    Here is even a better one on the colors – pick your base color in something that is available as an airbrush paint. You won’t have to mess with mixing or any other sillyness later, even if you don’t have an airbrush right now.

    Oh, and don’t choose GW colors – they will change on you. 😉

  • Drpx

    I mixed colors on my SM army because I made their scheme up in DOW Army Painter. Didn’t have a problem reproducing it until GW decided to rename their entire paint line. Eventually found it again, but not before painting 2/3 of a Stormwing, a LandSpeeder and one Scout a slighter darker shade than the rest of the army.