Don’t Forget Your Bases – Ancient Modeling Techniques

042716-Pinning-011

Yo dawg, Kenny Boucher here from the ACTUAL beats lab in Hollywood and today we’re going to learn how to pin your metal models to resin bases.

I just finished my transition into my Hollywood beats lab I want to thank all the people I met and who poured drinks with me at Adoption where the Long War Team won beset Heretical team.

Back to the tutorial, we’re going to talk about getting those itty bitty metal infinity mini’s off their slotta bases and on to some dope bases. It’s called pinning and that’s the ancient secret I’m going to reveal to you today, thanks to support from our Patreon which lets me do things a bit more righteously like getting my twitch stream going for everyone.

Okay, so now, now it’s time for the Ancient Hobby Technique, Pinning metal models to resin bases.

Step 1: For the love, wear a glove. The biggest draw back to metal models is that the pain WILL chip off.

042716-Pinning-001

 

Step 2: Grab your bases, which I’ve painted already using doublesided sticky tape. Don’t paint them one by one, WAY too much time.

042716-Pinning-002

 

Step 3: Grab your clippers and start scoring around the base, just prying and pulling and it pops off.

042716-Pinning-003

 

Ancient Technique: You’ll notice I had ALREADY removed the slotta part before attaching him to the base/

042716-Pinning-004

 

Step 4: Clean up the bottoms to get that old glue off.

042716-Pinning-005

 

Ancient Technique:  Score the base with your knife so that your drill doesn’t slip and slide all over the place. That stainless steel is MUCH harder than that pewter.

042716-Pinning-006

 

Step 5: Bust out the P3 pinning kit that comes with the drill bits. You literally can’t go wrong with this kit. Then just use your drill and get to work. Go in slow, treat her right. The drill works great as long as you go slow because there’s less pressure exerted on your mini; you don’t even have to go in super deep. Just enough to get some of the rod in.

Step 6: Add glue, insert rod, wait for it to stick.

042716-Pinning-008

 

Step 7: Blast a hole through the base.

042716-Pinning-009

 

Step 8: Clip the rod, be care, it will fly.

Step 9: Add glue, stick it in the hole.

042716-Pinning-007

 

Ancient Tehcnique, you’ll find that sometimes the pin doesn’t sit just right. Don’t pop it out, don’t re-glue it. Just add some Cork. Plus it beef’s up the model. I painted my rocks the same as the base and it looks amazing.

042716-Pinning-010 042716-Pinning-011 - Copy

 

 

To see the full tutorial in glorious HD watch the video below!

twitch small_banner

Watch my Live Twitch Stream Tuesdays 9pm EST!

  • euansmith

    Double Entendre Alert!

  • Flakey Jake

    God god, why on earth would you glue the mini to a base if you plan to pin it to a different one?! Kinda blew my mind with madness there fella.

    • Jon M

      Even if you intend to use custom bases (which are faster to paint separately from the model, generally), it’s probably more efficient to go ahead and spot-glue and then paint the model on the generic bases to get it them done faster without having to find a separate platform that will also be able to hold the heavier metal model.

      • V10_Rob

        Pin the model during construction, stick it in a disposable base. A scrap chunk of wood works, and it’ll generally stay put WITHOUT glue. When you’re done painting, pull it off easily and stick it in your custom base. No slicing and damaging the paint at the feet, no heavy handling/gripping of the finished mini as you drill the feet.

        • Flakey Jake

          Exactly, or what i do which is pin the model immediately and stick the pin into some cork or other stable item. Then paint and just the pin down the length you want for basing, sticking it to a base just to awkwardly cut it of later.

        • Jon M

          Good call and I may try that myself.

  • Getajob

    And to think, if you simply got a real job instead of begging like a Sucker you coulda done it sooner. Get a job freeloadin beggar.

  • Melchior

    Wow, stainless steel models. Where’s your grinder?

    There is absolutely no point in wearing gloves to protect yourself from the paint, unless you painted the model with exterior paint that contained lead, in which case you should be using gloves any time you handle them.

    Even more impressive “Ancient Technique”: drill the hole in the base FIRST. Position the model in the desired position, hold tightly, and drill through the hole in the base into the foot. The you don’t need to mess around with cork, because the model is already sitting flush.

    • Jon M

      I believe the glove is to protect the model finish and not your skin.

      • euansmith

        I was hoping he was going for a creepy, James Bond villain vibe, but I guess your suggestion makes more sense.

    • JohnnyTrombone

      Step 1 he says to wear gloves to protect the paint on the model.

  • Scott Guise (Shrew8541)

    I guess I am ancient then…still do this myself…I guess I just like hobbying 😉

    Wounded Badger
    https://woundedbadger.wordpress.com/

  • JohnnyTrombone

    I pin all of my Infinity figures to resin bases. But when I clip away slot tab, I leave ‘pegs’ on the feet (may have to trim the pegs a little). Instant pinning with no drill or risk of damaging the small feet! Drill a hole in the base, sometimes it needs a little greenstuff (as the peg is not round) to fill in around the peg. But good to go!

  • lykum

    I assemble the mini on the resin base and airbrush the mini then the base. Usually, any overspray from the base can be covered up when I paint the boots (since they’re usually a different color than the uniform anyway). This sounds like a lot of extra steps.