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Demi-Legion: Chaos Titan Mega Build-Two Warhounds, One Reaver

5 Minute Read
Apr 14 2010

Check out this summary of my current progress with the Titan Mega Build.  Thats 3 titans there – I’m crazy!

Well I couldn’t help myself. Being a long time follower of all things Chaotic, when the Forgeworld Chaos Reaver  Titan hit I just had to have it. But I was afraid that he would be a little lonely by himself in my display case so I bought two Warhounds to keep him company as well. It seemed like a good idea at the time….

Thus my Chaotic Demi-Legion was born, to ravage apocalypse and gladiator games to no end.  However in order to make this plan come to fruition, I had to get my arse in gear and assemble these puppies.  Fortunately I have cohorts that are eager and willing to help for their share of plastic toys!

So with a watchful eye and a devoted helper the Legion began to emerge.

Most people by now have heard that assembling these things are a pain the arse. However its mostly just the legs that suck. You really, really have to plan that out carefully.  First trim up all your leg pieces from the toes up to the hip joints. Have it all ready to go and your leg build will go smoothly.
It’s preferable to have two people for this operation. My helper Andy “Submariner” Holley trimmed down and de-flashed these pieces in no time flat.  We used the instructions for inspiration for the leg poses (basically that means we copied it).  So while I dry fitted and glued each piece Andy held the hip and legs to make sure everything lined up and the hip joint that attached to the torso would be level.
It all turned out pretty good, and you can even do this without attaching the pistons -except the hamstring one you have to attach that when you build up to the hip.

One last piece of advice. Magnetizing or pinning the leg assembly to the torso will not only give you the ability to move you titan left to right ( and make cool machine gun noises when you shoot), but lets you transport your bad boy easier as well.

I used two 1/2″ rare earth magnets here. You have to try and make sure that even with the magnets attached that the two pieces they are connecting remain flush to transfer the force of the Torso assembly to the legs. These magnets will not do all the work by themselves!

Working on the torso, while its not quite as hard as doing the legs, it’s still important to make sure everything lines up correctly. I also plan on going back and painting the interior. I just want to get the outside painted first because we have an Apocalypse game coming up in a few weeks that I need this guy for.

So here’s a good progress shot of Warhound # 1 along with a shot of the flexibility of the torso when its magnetized. The center of gravity of the torso seems to be working out well with the positioning of the feet.  It worked out pretty good I think.


We went ahead and cleaned up all the weapons I bought for both Warhounds just so we could have options to use for the upcoming Apocalypse game. I wasn’t sure what lists we would be running for that so I wanted to make sure I at least planned the Titan out for maximum killing.


I left the leg greaves off so I could paint them, and the leg detail itself easier. The pistons go on pretty fast, but some we had to drill out because the casts had been a bit smooshed and the sides had jutted into the mounting hole.  No big deal really, but you have to be prepared for anything I think when you are assembling these things.

I ended up magnetizing the weapon arms, so we could use whatever weapon load-out I had. The most popular weapon combo so far, seemed to be the twin Turbo Laser Destroyers. I pinned the top of the weapons mount and magnetized the bottom, again with a 1/2″ diameter rare earth magnet.  I also glued a small strip of plastic card onto the magnet on the weapon mount, to help prevent them from chipping or cracking- a fact learned from a previous blog comment!

Now that the assembly was complete for the most part, I needed to wash the resin down so I wouldn’t have any problems with the paint adhering to it.  It’s a good idea to do this because when resin is cast, a small coat of mold release is left on the model. Sometimes some of the mold comes off and gets wedged into bits of detail as well. It all can make paint run off, or not even stick at all.  So it’s best to scrub this thing down with soap, and let it dry overnight.

By morning it was completely dry, and I started priming it up in the base color I wanted.  I used Army Painter’s Necrotic Flesh. It’s a lighter green color, like Dead Flesh, which is fine because I’m going to wash it with darker colors anyways.

So that’s it so far. Primed up and ready to go to war!



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