Pimpcron: Three Hobby Practices That Need To Stop

Pimpcron has had enough with you people (you know who you are).

I bring salutations and greetings to you readers. You can only take one, there isn’t enough of them for everyone to have both. Today I come to you, not as a mere humble metallic alien horror, but as the friend and father figure than I know I am to many of you.

I’ve been around the block for a while, and I have learned some dark secrets about my friends and some of you on the internet that make me cringe. You need to stop doing these couple things or I’m going to have to “leave real quick to go get cigarettes” like your real father did and never come back.

Rant: ON!

Painting Models on the Sprue

This may the one that irritates me the most. What kind of half-breed weirdo paints models on the sprue? I get that you want to paint “all” of the model and some people find it hard to paint in armpits and crotches of their models when assembled. But I cringe whenever I see beautifully painted models still on sprue. So you spend all of this time painting, then cut the piece off the sprue and what about the vent spots where it was still attached? You then have to paint those spots afterwards, including any blending that you had to do on the model prior. I don’t see any net time gained at all.

Some of you see this as a perfectly good place to start painting. I smack you with a newspaper on the nose.

In a related point, why on Earth do you care if some thing is painted that nobody can see? I have had this talk with my friend Steve who paints his parts separate prior to assembling and he even paints the BOTTOM OF HIS MODEL’S FEET. Ya know, the part that is 100% not visible to anyone? The part of the foot that only you and God know what looks like between the base and model? Why would you spend time doing that?

Ever since I first started, I thought, “Well, if I can’t see it nobody else can.” I assemble first then prime and paint. I have painted literally hundreds of models and never once has anyone noticed that the little 28mm dude’s armpit was any different the rest of the model. I mean, I reach in there and paint the armpit if it’s a visible part of the model, if not screw it.


Thinning Your Paints All The Time

What is with you guys? Any picture I ever see on Facebook or elsewhere, 90% of the comments are “Thin your paints”. The model could be perfect, but people think it’s hilarious. It’s not. I get it that Duncan is like our first ever celebrity in our hobby that wasn’t actual game creator. His Average Joe status makes him easier to identify with than a lofty and venerated gaming designer like Sir Andy Chambers. But if you guys thin your paints every time you use them, you’d be water coloring by now. I only thin my paints when I see the paint in the pot is getting a bit thicker, and so a drop or two of water in the pot makes everything all loosey-goosey again. Other than that, cut this crap out people.

Sure, we’ve all seen some models with paint that was way too thick on them, but the VAST majority of painters know not to do that and don’t use colored putty to paint their models. Thick paint is a beginner mistake, and was only intended originally as a tip for new people.

Look! I just painted this whole model solid white with my uber thinned paints..

There is a 99% chance this people who shout “thin your paints” constantly talk loudly in movie theaters and talk with their mouthful at dinner.

Ignoring Molds Lines

I have a hunch that the mold line ignorers are the sprue painting people. Don your tin foil hat now, at the very least I feel that these two groups of hobbyists are working together to ruin this hobby for me.

I feel like I’m being too dramatic about all of this.


Image result for severe mold lines miniatures

This is perfectly fine with some of you. [Pimpcron screams internally]

What kind of person would assemble and paint a model and leave hideous mold lines all over the place? Not a person I’d trust my dog with, and I don’t even own a dog. To me, a person how ignores their models’ mold lines shows a latent disrespect for life, probably doesn’t have their finances in order, and probably vapes competitively. While I don’t have any hard evidence for these allegations, I feel like this is a good summary of the type of person who overlook such an obvious thing.


~Are there any other hobby practices that irritate you?

Pimpcron signature 3

Or contact me at brutalityskirmishwargame@gmail.com for the latest rules if you don’t do the Facebooks.

  • Seienchin

    I agree on thin your paints and also talked about it on social media.
    Some modern paints are sooo thin like most of GWs metal colors its ludicrous to water them down.
    I do acknowledge that people spending really a lot of time on painting might still water them down and apply three layers for one really even color layer (and then layer 4 times…) but lets face it – this is not how most of us paint…
    Look at the color first and if it is really thick then water it down – unless you want to drybrush.

    • Metallics really seem to lose a lot when really watered down.

      • Steven Hyche

        Metallics are the most
        Important color to have the correct viscosity they lose just as much for not being thinned

        • Xodis

          Vallejo Liquid Metals.

          Its Alcohol based, but its like applying the actual metal with your brush.

          • euansmith

            Don’t let the “Alcohol Based” fool ya! It tastes really weird, takes bottles and bottles to even get a mild buzz, and makes your pee and poo really weird!

          • Muninwing

            though, have enough and it won’t matter what color you wanted to paint that army… you’ll be too blind to work on it!

          • LankTank

            So this is the secret to Pi$$ing Silver and S#itting Gold!

          • euansmith

            And belching lead… urp…

  • Fergie0044

    …I prime my models while they are still on sprues. And do the base colours while only half assembled. Mainly because I am a clumsy oaf who will make tons of mistakes if I don’t. Backpacks (and backs) or weapons that are tight to the models chest are perfect examples where it is easier IMO to base paint them separately and then glue together for the wash/highlights.
    I also mostly ignore mold lines as anytime I try and remove them I make a mess of it. So congrats on your conspiracy theory being partially correct.

  • Simon Chatterley

    I did a genuine “LoL” at the Peter Griffin picture. I have a what really grinds my gears moment every day.

    I don’t get people painting on the sprue. Surely all you need to do is paint the bits that you couldn’t when you cut it out? I rarely thin my GW paints and they work great. But I have started to thin the washes with Lahmian medium for better coverage.

    Ignoring mould lines should be an offence punishable by death.

    If I was in charge…..

  • xNickBaranx

    ˈhaf ˌbrēd/Submit
    plural noun: half-breeds
    a person whose parents are of different races, especially the offspring of an American Indian and a person of white European ancestry.

    I’m guessing you didn’t realize what you were saying as an insult, Pimpcron. I highly recommend that you replace this bit of offense in your first section.

    • Arthfael

      I don’t think this is what he meant – we fantasy types are used to it being used in the context of, like, mixing elves and orcs (yuk!) But agreed that in the real world sense it is very offensive.

      • Pl4gu3 B4st4rd

        I am an half-orc and I find this comment offensive.

        • Patriarch

          No one cares what filthy half orcs think!

          • Pl4gu3 B4st4rd

            If you try to be mean, try at least to be funny …

          • Xodis

            I thought it was funny.

          • LankTank

            Is that why you are a Pl4gu3 B4st4rd? Your orc daddy didn’t want to marry her cause she was oozin?

          • Pl4gu3 B4st4rd

            Don’t call me your brother k thx bye

          • dave long island

            Quite true. More than anything else, I detest dirty racists and filthy half Orcs…. lol

        • Rafał Pytlak

          Only HALF orc? Your WAAAGH is dissapointed in you… Gork and Mork weep

        • Arthfael

          And judging by the… smell… the other half is… no don’t tell me, is that Hrud? Great Asuryan, those mon-keigh are truly fascinating!

      • Pimpcron

        Thanks Arthfael. You’re right. I never heard that as a description for a real person. Only half-orc or whatever.

        • Arthfael

          Actually, me neither, until I read Tom Sawyer for the first time last month.

          • mac40k

            Obviously you youngsters never heard the Cher song.

    • AEZ

      Necron’s are all white metal supremacists

    • kobalt60

      Totally agree. And while we’re at it, what’s with”dark secrets”? I pulled that phrase far out of context, and I’m sure it’s mildly racist too! Sanitize everything!

    • LankTank

      Especially the offsping of an American Indian and white European? Out of all of Englands Booty calls America had probably the least!
      Almost every country has had wide spread racial intergration. Look at the spanish and native south americans or england and india. But trust some American who wrote that definition to make themselves the focus.

    • Pimpcron

      Yeah, I wasn’t aware of that usage. Seems pretty outdated to be honest.

      I was referring to half-Orc or whatever. Good catch.

    • TheArtificer

      As someone who is that thing and was actually called that in high school by teachers, I reserve my right to be indignant for something actually important.

      • Patriarch

        Bloody hell! Where did you go to school?

  • Dimitri Harkov

    In ‘my’ 31st millenium, Astartes armour is being manufactured using molding techniques. Since they are then rushed to the front to fight Horus/the Emperor, no one has the time to file away the mold lines -> So I don’t do it either 🙂

    • Spacefrisian

      Weld lines you mean.

      • Dimitri Harkov

        I indeed mean mould lines. Armour moulded as in the bell foundries of medieval times 🙂 But if they are welded for you I’m ok with that too 😉

    • dave long island

      Outstanding use of lore to justify laziness. Brilliant. I shall start applying this technique wherever possible… lol

    • Rafał Pytlak

      That’s why teh crappy looking MkV armour have those ball pauldrons

    • AEZ

      In ANY 31st millenium Astartes armor is top notch stuff which isn’t rushed.. before every layer of (thinned) paint several dozen techpriests and what not bless it and remove weldlines if those where still there (and then they’d make sure everyone in the production process before they saw the suit would be executed for treason).

      • SYSTem050

        In the grim darkness of future, all power armour manufacturing has been outsourced to forgeworld Chinatopia. The helpdesk call centre based in Indicustomaticus and requires phoning a premium rate number while beaifing the emperor. It is such a mess, not even the emperors finest have found the patience to try and sort out the imperfections of the armour.

        As such marines are buying cheaper options from sports directicus

    • Mike Forrey

      Best explanation Ever! lol

    • Mike Forrey

      Best explanation Ever! lol

  • Patriarch

    “The part of the foot that only you and God know what looks like between the base and model? Why would you spend time doing that?”

    Sometimes the question answers itself, heretic!

    • af

      Especially since drilling out gun barrels looks great for such little effort…

    • Rafał Pytlak

      Sometimes i think our hobby is full of ADD people who just have to have the chest part between bolter carrying hands painted insteda of a grey-black spot. And drill their plastic barrels instead of painting a black circle on it.

      • Muninwing

        what would this have to do with ADD?

        • Rafał Pytlak

          They need everything to be specific. One mini out of place or with a slightly different shade of paint? A few milimeters curve on a plstic spear? Foam on the mouth and spasms. They don’t know how to “let it go”

          • Muninwing

            … do you mean OCD?

            two different things.

            attention deficit and obsessive compulsive.

            and while part of ADHD is hyperfocus on certain details, if it’s something that the individual finds to be boring, hard, or emotionally taxing they are more likely to rush through it.

            what is often thought of as “taking pride in your work” is not OCD either. there’s a huge gap between wanting to paint even the hard-to-see parts and your “foam on the mouth” examples.

      • af

        Painting vs drilling is not OCD. It really looks very different, and drilling is very easy with a hobby drill. A few seconds and you’re done, and it looks great.

        Agreed about not painting or detailing hard to see parts.

  • ZeeLobby

    Mold lines are annoying. The rest only matters if you want your models to look the best possible. Of course at some point you need to paint/trim the sprue spots, and remove mold lines prior to painting on sprue, but painting before assembly is a smart thing to do, again, if you want your model to look the best.

    As for thinning your paints, it’s just plain smart. Not only does it give you more even coverage, but it also extends the life of your pots if done smartly. I put water in each pot itself before I use it. Again, it only matters if you care how good your model looks, and is dependent on the consistency of the paint to start (GW’s base paints will straight up remove detail if just lathered on).

    • Muninwing

      i think the newer layer paints need less thinning… so those of us who learned on the oldschool bolter-round paint pots or the fancy hex-pots with the flip-lids still do it out of habit.

      i painted some gummed-up caked-on crap before i learned that thinning paints was a thing. i’m ok with doing an extra coat to make sure things are even.

      and after working as a house painter for a summer, i learned a lot about coverage, hue, and consistency. there’s a lot of small easily-avoided errors that people make that make thinned paint look bad — usually it’s either too much water, sloppy application, improper basecoating, or only using one coat.

      • ZeeLobby

        Yeah, most people I know, especially those who hate the idea of thinning, end up doing like a 50/50 mix of paint to water, and it looks like crap. Finding the right balance is key, but man do details look sharper when you get it right.

        • Muninwing

          in the other direction… i spent the last two weeks working on faces for my Iron Hands. two of the models were some of the first for the army that i made. i had primed them gray to start, and later went with the FW airbrush schema, which meant repriming them black.

          the level of detail that i lost in priming them twice is pretty easy to see. some of the faces look really cool… and one looks more like a potato that’s already lost a round with a masher

          the resin head on my resurrection of Bikelord Smashf***er is so detailed that it looks really cool even with my middling talent. luckily potato-man won’t be in the same unit.

  • benn grimm

    Unpainted armies beyond the six month mark (particularly those also featuring metal models). Lazy proxies.

    • eMtoN

      It took me nearly 5 years to paint my Dark Eldar army to about 90%. I still have a tantalus and 2 reapers that aren’t done yet. In the meantime I think I’ve settled on a different paint scheme so I may be repainting most of the rest of them…

      It reminds me how a mechanics car is always in the shop…

      • benn grimm

        Those are some lucky kids, and you are a cool Dad 🙂

    • Muninwing

      this was me forever.

      now, i paint far more than i play, so i’m finally getting backlog done.

      i even painted a model i bought semi-recently — Cypher is finally done.

      • benn grimm

        Glad to hear you’ve finally come over to the light side 😉

      • Dennis J. Pechavar

        It’s how my fantasy armies are getting completed. It only took me a decade or so…

        • Muninwing

          i bought a ton of High Elves for a painting project around 2008… started on assembly but got distracted by other armies and by life.

          painted one model. it was the oldschool Teclis with the boobstaff. looked great, but i knew it’d have taken me forever to strip and restore all the models i got from ebay.

          really, i just wanted to play. and i could play better with my Beastmen.

          now… i’m not playing with the Beasts. so maybe after i finish my current two painting projects, i’ll go back to the Elves of Ind project. not like i care if they hit the table at this point.

          • Dennis J. Pechavar

            Bitterness has made my painting better as the salty tears thins my paints. 😛

    • I am not the worlds worst painter, but I am perhaps it’s slowest. The problem one is, I care about my models and I don’t want to just slap paint on them. I have done so in the past, but I hate it. I want to be able to give each model the love it deserves. This leads to problem two. I’m really busy. Painting, unlike assembly, is not something that I can drop in a minute and then start again 10 minutes later. I also started this hobby in my 30’s, so I haven’t had the models since junior high like most of the people I play against. There’s also the issue of priming and living in Minnesota, which means I only have about 5 decent months of rattle can weather.
      Someday soon, when the nest is empty and I can prioritize my own hobby, I plan on a fully painting my all my miniatures that see regular use. I’ve even put a moratorium on additional games or factions until I’ve accomplished this. All this to say, everyone is different and we all have our own issues. Laziness is not my issue.

      • benn grimm

        Children do seem to get in the way of a lot of stuff, my own breeder friends assure me it’s all worthwhile through gritted teeth, as they stare into space with sleep deprived eyes… 😉

        I’m lucky I had time to get the armies I use most often mostly done before work really started to get busy for me, now I enjoy converting and painting a model or two here n there when I can find time and be bothered. Alas, when I’m not at work, laziness is most definitely one of many issues.

  • m3g4tr0n

    When I used to play Warmachine, nearly all of my minis had their arms unattached. It was my greatest shame, and my greatest joy.

    • dave long island

      Best comment of the week. You win the old metal Nagash mini. Just the head and the body, no arms… lol

      • Muninwing

        [insert Abbadon joke here]

        • euansmith

          There’s no space to insert a joke; Abbadon is already in there.

          • dave long island

            That’s right. You can’t even fit an Abbadon joke in there with a shoe horn and some grease!.. lol

        • dave long island

          Haw haw!! Hey I drilled holes through oldman Nagash and pinned the heck outta him, back in the day. Back when people who used a pin vise thought they were on the ‘cutting edge’ of mini assemblage… lol. I drilled right through his shoulders in one long hole and put a pin right thru him, holding both arms on, on either end. That’s right, he has one paper clip of necrotic, unholy, American steel holding his arms together. Is he still a crappy mini that looks like a clown? Yes. Yes he is. Will his arms stay on well past man has devolved into 2 separate species: one living above ground in comfort and opulence, and one dirty, brutish group living below ground, whose eyes no longer work? Yes. Yes they will… lol

  • Borja Saiz Bustamante

    When I grew up I wanna be a souless metallic allmighty horror like you, Pimpcron!

    The thing I hate the most about painting is ignoring the “lore”. If it is RED painted it is NOT an Ultramarine. Cammo pattern on Chaos Marines?? Slanneshi pink Dark Eldars are an aberration to the hobby no matter how well painted.

    No context, not art. Just a piece of plastic with paint on it

    • Muninwing

      i love that so many people made custom chapters.

      i hate that the SCs have become so much a force in the game that they are basically needed… and playing Counts-As to fit the requirements for taking the characters that are being exploited…

  • Erick Earle

    This is the first article I’ve read of Pimpcron’s that I 100% agree with.

    • Rafał Pytlak

      Yeah, no joke

  • Talos2

    Yeah no need to water down the paint. Just dip the model in, saves time

  • Rafał Pytlak

    People really paint on the sprue? That’s as barbaric as those air-brushes i keep hearing about.

    And wet pallete look gross as frag.

    • af

      I really don”t understand airbrushing 28mm figures either. Vehicles, sure. But figures?

      I’ve never used a wet palette, but I’m tempted. If anything else, acrylics dry really fast and you waste more paint than you use. Wet palettes seem less wasteful.

  • LeroyJenkinss

    I disagree with your main point. I believe there are enough salutations and greetings to go around. You’re just being greedy.

    • Pimpcron

      Darn. And I would have gotten away with it too, if it weren’t for that pesky LeroyJenkinss!

  • AEZ

    I don’t care much about subtle mold lines (GW’s ones often aren’t as bad as the one shown or it’s the lighting.

  • SYSTem050

    The thing I find with mould lines is I get rid of them all, inspect the model carefully then after priming the model the little bar stewards reappear

  • eMtoN

    It depends on the specific paint if it needs thinner or not. Metalics – rarely if ever. However quite a few of the paints out there are pretty thick right out of the bottle/pot. So either you need to thin the whole pot or thin what you use a the time you’re using it.

    Alternatively, you could just buy the pre-thinned “air” brush paints…those do work with brushes as well 😉

    Mold lines bother me too. Fortunately, most of the new kits have far fewer mold lines than the older ones. And I do have to plug GWs mold line remover – that thing is really good. I thought it would be a waste of money but gave it a try anyway. It’s now on my required tools list.

  • bad mood

    I do that, almost all the time. Reason: I play DKoK, you know the amount of detail on these figs? Painting unassembled is a lot faster and produces less mistakes that need corrections again. Also there is no way I can reach every corner that one can see because sometimes, if assembled, there is just other stuff in the way. And if I do reach it then it means I’ll be slobbering paint all over other places that should be free of it, hence I need to do more correction, which means even more time. The amount of extra work after assembly is actually benign. It’s mostely just washes and highlights that I left until that step and then some thin brushstrokes over the gluepoints.
    I do that, too. As someone else here points out, GW and Armypainter paint is so thick, it goes right over all the detail. Small (!) amounts of water go a long way, often a more than wet brush is enough. Also particularly white and yellow are a lot easier to paint in 3-4 layers, in undiluted form they harden up so quickly and you’re left with brushstroke crevices on the model.

    Ok thats heresy, but again, with models from Forgeworld, sometimes your “moldline” is an entire shift which means cutting of that difference and reshaping means your model will have a very…..VERY….slim foot. Tough call then, sometimes I just leave it or make minimal corrections.

  • marxlives

    Painting on the sprue….that is Lovecraftian levels of degeneracy.

  • Xodis

    Sorry, I base coat on the sprue and its not changing! I make sure to clean mold lines first though.

  • Geemoney

    I paint mold lines red, and call them scars!

  • Lion ‘El Johnson Was Here

    adds mold lines to lemon russ, and paints him with food coloring.

  • af

    Removing mold lines from swords is a pain, true. I can manage almost everything else.

    • Patriarch

      Plasma gun coils for me. The mould line is always right down the middle, and destroys the pattern if I try to clean it up.

      • euansmith

        I guess you need a little file that can run along the lines without obliterating them. Alternately, don’t give anyone plasma weapons 😀 GW could simply run a spine along the top of the coils to remove the issue.

  • Apocryphus

    I find thinned paints to just be easier to work with, it might just be preference. I tried painting on the sprue once…never again. And as for painting hidden detail, well, the bottom of my Monolith is most definitely just black. I tend to look closely at minis I put on my display hutch, so getting the chest detail on Chaos Marines holding bolters is important to me, because the model always looks unfinished otherwise when I see it. Also, Pimpcron, I think I know what army you play, painting arcs and barges before they’re fully assembled is just easier. 😛

  • GiftoftheMagi

    I like my paints how I like my women.


    • Muninwing

      (thought you said “pants” and was confused about the relevance…)

  • mac40k

    Back when I was active in the hobby, I was 100% in agreement with this. I always assembled models first and was meticulous about removing mold lines. Of course, I started back when plastic figs were a rare thing to begin with and there was little if any sprue attached to the metal bits and mold lines involved using several different hobby files and various grades of sandpaper to address. As plastic continued to replace metal over the years, those habits stuck. I can’t imagine having painted something on the sprue then F’ing it up cutting it off, removing the mold lines, and sanding/filing it off the joints so the Testor model glue could melt the two parts together, only to have to repaint it after all that. Ain’t got time for that.

    As for painting, I wasn’t looking to win any Golden Demon awards, and although I always preferred to field painted figs, I only ever tried for tabletop/arms-length quality. I wanted to paint as little as possible. If enough of a model was a single color, like a Space Marine, Necron, Skeleton Warrior, etc., it got a base coat with a can of Krylon, then an ink wash, some dry brushing, and finally painting those bits that were a different color, then picking out some details with a 10/0 brush. None of this multiple thin coats crap. I barely had the desire to do a single coat by hand on models that didn’t have enough of one color to base coat with spray paint as it was. The biggest thing for me was moving from priming with white to using black. Black spots in hard to reach crevices don’t stand out like white spots do. This saved a lot of frustration when painting my completely assembled models.

    As for point #2, I quickly grew wise to the GW marketing tactic of selling micro quantities of paint in pots that would dry out before half the minuscule amount of paint they charged mucho denero for got used and started buying my acrylics at the craft store where I could get a big bottle with a dropper top for a buck or two. I put a bb or two in the bottles when I’d first open them to give them some type of agitator action when shaking them, but add water? Heck no! Most colors were thick enough to achieve the goal of one coat coverage. Just put a few drops on an old microwave plate and have at it. When the glob on the plate got thick enough that a wet brush couldn’t revive it, I’d just put a couple of fresh drops on the plate and the paints were so much cheaper than the GW pots that I didn’t mind how many times I had to put a fresh drop or two on the plate to finish whatever I was working on at the time. Plenty more where it came from.

  • euansmith

    The mold lines I hate are the ones that only show up when you photograph your finished mini. 🙁

    • af

      See also: unpainted spots only seen with flash turned on, just after you triumphantly declared the model “finished”.

  • Neil Burns

    I disagree on the sprue part for some bits. I paint my Leman Russ treads on the sprue, but everything else is questionable.

    • Pimpcron

      I guess treads would be a fair instance. They are flat and generally painted black anyway.

  • What grinds my gears is people telling me I am doing my hobby wrong. While I understand that this article is tongue in cheek, there are an awful lot of gamers who care way too much about how I spend my time. For the record though, I do not paint on sprue and I file my mold lines. My dodge on thinning paints is to use airbrush paints, but then, how I get paint of my admittedly few painted models seems to be the epitome of “not someone else’s business.”

    • eMtoN

      That is horrible, horrible I say. If you aren’t using an internet approved method of paint application then you have lost 1 internet point. 😉

    • Pimpcron

      Atleast you got the point behind the article. I give you 1 internet point to off set eMtoN’s deduction

  • af

    I choose my hobby techniques based on effort vs payoff. I try to do something I’ll be proud of, but only if there’s not a huge effort involved. But there’s also a second factor involved: because I tend to lose motivation fast — and also because I have tons of projects and I’m easly derailed — I’ll also choose techniques which show progress fast and let me keep my fragile motivation as much as possible; this rules out any procedure that will only pay off much later.

    1- I do not prime or paint models still on the sprue. This is because an unassembled model makes me lose motivation fast. I need to assemble the model as soon as possible. This sometimes gets in the way of painting hard to reach details later; my only concession to this is leaving shields and sometimes weapons unglued.

    2- I’m neutral about thinning paints. I’m a total Duncan fanboy and thinning improves control and maintains details. But not all paints need it.

    I’ve never used a wet palette but I’m considering building one. Mostly because acrylics dry up *really fast*, which is wasteful. Paints are expensive. If a wet palette lets me use more of my paints, then I’ll give it a go.

    3- Mold lines: I try to remove them as much as I can using a hobby knife or a file. Also, I ALWAYS drill gun barrels with my trusty hobby drill — this falls under factor one: “maximum effect for minimum effort”. Bolters and cannons really look nicer with an actual barrel hole in them, and it only takes a few seconds.

    • Pimpcron

      I share your sentiments.

  • Pimpcron

    Looks good. Pimpcron approved. 🙂

  • Damistar

    I tried painting on the sprue once, then never again. The extra clean up with assembly took much longer because you have to remove the paint at the joins or the plastic cement wont bind properly. Then cleaning off all the injection point marks and long rounds of touch ups just made it a poor return on time investment. I also paint right out of the bottle and only thin when necessary.

  • Gunther Clone C

    I’m a mold line ignoring individual…because I’m lazy.

    • euansmith

      The best reason there is!