The metals started on Hyperion received an initial 1:2:5 Winsor&Newton Lamp Black: Dioxazine Purple: Mineral Spirits, after applying a gloss varnish to those areas with the airbrush. The whole model received a matt varnish to seal the oils. I went back into some of the larger areas of bare metal like the nodes on his shoulder guards and his forearm blades to give further definition since they’re such prominent areas of the model.
Hyperion was pretty straight forward in assembly, boasting all the pose-ability Privateer has been putting into their plastic jacks. The join of the two halves that comprise his upper torso wasn’t flush, leaving a pretty significant gap between within the Starburst chamber and Hyperion’s back. I took sandpaper and leveled out the innards of that join, filling what gaps remained with plumbers putty. This stuffs great because it dries within 5 minutes to a sandable, paintable surface. With that pesky thing called work in the way of my hobby, having to wait hours for green stuff or Milliput to dry is super annoying on the limited time I have. After the short dry time, I used fine grit sandpaper to smooth out the joins again and they disappeared completely. The other assembly problem I ran into, in the last day of painting argh!, was stabilizing Hyperion. He was fine during initial assembly and painting but once I put him all together and handled him a few times his “shin” joints became slightly wobbly, even sitting on pins, with the Iosan jack design making him so top heavy. With this in mind I would highly suggest that you use some type of modeling compound, green stuff, plumbers putty, Milliput etc, to secure both sides of his “shins” to his feet and thighs.
I chose to paint Hyperion in sub assemblies. This let me paint all the pieces with nothing getting in the way of each other and also helps to speed the process somewhat since you don’t have to slow down to avoid a stray brush stroke …can’t stray if the entire piece you’re doing is one solid color.