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SHOWCASE: Warmachine: Painting Deneghra3 Pt. 1

5 Minute Read
Feb 1 2016

Deneghra 3 paint 000

I’ve finally finished painting the new Cryx Battle Engine Warcaster – and got some step by step shots along the way.

Deneghra 3 paint 001

The first part was to take care of all the metallic areas. Since Deneghra here is supposed to match the rest of my Cryx army, I didn’t bother with any fancy NMM.

The technique I use here is one that I’ve been using a long time. I start with a rusty-looking base: Bloodstone washed with thinned down Ember Orange. Then I drybrush it all with some Cold Steel.

Deneghra 3 paint 002

Here’s the wing at the same step. I always fully assemble a model if I think I can, but these huge based pieces… It’s just too difficult to manipulate such a large model with any real degree of control. That means I won’t be fully assembling it until the end.

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Next I give everything a wash with a mix of Agrax Earthsade, Guiliman Blue, and Nuln Oil. I like this mix since I think it gives it kind of a dirty oily look.


Then its on to the gold areas. I basecoat these with Traitor Green and Drybrush them with Solid Gold.

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I wash the gold with Devlan Mud with a little bit of Biel Tan Green mixed in. You can change up the look of metallic surfaces a lot by varying which base coat and which kind of ink you use. I went into more detail on this in my very first painting article several years back.

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In order to make the gold nice and even, I have to touch up a few places by hand. Unfortunately a lot of these pictures ended up a little over exposed, so it’s hard to really see any difference. I think this model was just a little too big for the light box I was using when I took the pictures, and the light wasn’t being diffused properly.

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Then I go into the gray color I use for the hull. I like to try to add some color to my gray, so the basecoat is my own mix of Thornwood Green and Umbral Umber. This is highlighted with Trollblood highlight, which actually has a faint pink tone to it. A little Menoth White Highlight is blended in with the Trollblood highlight to brighten it up for the lightest areas. For the darkest areas, I use a warm toned black – Thamar Black with a little Bloodstone and P3 Red Ink mixed in. I use all these warm colors since it will help really make the green glows I plan to add later pop.


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When I finish all the gray, I add a thin wash of Bloodstone around the edges to represent a little rust and add a little more color.

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Now is the part I hate the most. It’s always tempting to skip this step, but time after time I end up doing it anyway. All the rivets are picked out with the same warm black from earlier.

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Next, each little rivet is highlighted with a mix of the custom gray basecoat and Trollblood highlight, leaving just a line of black to define the rivets. Then a spot of Trollblood Highlight mixed with Menoth White Highlight is applied to each to give them just a bit more definition. I keep thinking someday I’ll find a faster way to do these and lament all the time I wasted doing it this way.

Now that I’ve finally handled all of the gray, I decide to do the tubes on the neck. It’s the same warm black mix, highlighted with Coal Black


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Then I just clean them up by blacklining in between the tubes.

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The tongue is Midlund flesh shaded with a kind of sickly purple I mixed up. I also basecoated the mouth with Hammerfall Khaki.

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I mix a little Frostbite in with the Midlund Flesh to highlight the tongue. I also start on the teeth, blending a base of Gun Corps Brown into black as it reaches the tip of each tooth. While I have the gun Corps Brown out I also use it to shade the mouth, although it’s a bit hard to tell because the picture is a little overexposed again.

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To give the teeth definition, I add a line of very thinned down Menoth White Highlight with the side of my brush. I use the same color to highlight the mouth at the same time.

~Hope you enjoyed everything so far, I’ll be back for part 2 soon.





Ben Williams
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